Are essential oils bad for your skin?

Photo illustration: The Cut, Photo: Getty Images

You’re not alone in your curiosity about essential oils. According to a new report from ClearForMe, a tool used by online retailers to make their product ingredient lists more understandable, eight of the top 10 skin care ingredients Americans research online are natural oils or extracts (with “essential oils” coming in at number five). I think the increased interest online, and your question, stems from the same problem: too much conflicting information.

Search for essential oils on Google or TikTok and you’ll find videos of self-proclaimed doctors misusing essential oils or calling them “great” because they’re “made from herbs and plants.” Right next to them are videos of doctors advising against using essential oils on children and linking essential oil use to acne. But there’s a nuance to this debate that CapCut can’t simplify. “Some essential oils are more irritating than others, so it’s important to do your research and speak to a dermatologist if you have any concerns,” says Divya Shokeen, MD, a dermatologist in the Los Angeles area. The only truth beyond question is that you should never apply undiluted essential oils to your skin.

When it comes to homemade blends, the safe and effective results depend on which essential oils you add, and in what concentrations, to the carrier oil (in this case, jojoba oil). “You want to respect the natural potency of the essential oil,” says aromatherapist Denise LaPalm, founder of bath and body brand L’Beauxtique. According to LaPalm and two dermatologists I consulted with, your finished face or body oil formula should only contain 1 to 2 percent essential oil. “Six to 12 drops per ounce of carrier oil,” says LaPalm.

Chances are you’ve continued using your homemade oils without any reaction or irritation; if not, you’d probably stop using them. But always do a patch test before applying any new formula. “Apply your oil blend to a small area of ​​skin, like the inside of your forearm or behind your ear, and leave it on for 48 hours to see how your skin reacts,” says Carmen Castile, MD, a dermatologist at New York Dermatology Group and clinical instructor at Mount Sinai Hospital.

This may sound overly cautious, but it’s also a good idea to do a patch test on any oils you buy regularly, especially if you’re switching brands. “Improperly processed oils may contain impurities that are more likely to cause irritation,” Castile explains. “Reputable brands will often provide information about the processing, production, and sourcing of their essential oils, but they may also develop sensitivities over time. It’s not uncommon to develop sensitivities after weeks or months of using a particular product.”

The experts I asked were reluctant to recommend specific brands, because everyone’s skin is different and quality varies from lot to lot. But I like to buy my essential oils from Tenzing Momo in Seattle. (I know it’s a niche recommendation, but their French lavender smells amazing, and I use their diluted arnica oil to help bruises heal faster.) I’ve also heard good things about Eden Botanicals from aromatherapists. (Amy Galper, The Ultimate Guide to Aromatherapytold me about this company when I interviewed her on my podcast.

Which essential oils are “good for your skin” depends on what effect you’re looking for. The scent of lavender essential oil reduces anxiety, and chamomile oil has anti-inflammatory properties when applied topically. Incidentally, these are the only essential oils that dermatologists Shokeen and Castile mentioned as generally safe for use at home (when properly diluted and patch tested). That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try other essential oils; use them with caution. And to be on the safe side, avoid lemon verbena, lemongrass, cinnamon bark, oregano, thyme, and clove essential oils. “These are pretty strong and can be irritating,” says LaPalm. “Leave it to someone who’s familiar with aromatherapy and compounding.”

If your homemade jojoba blend adheres to all of the above guidelines, it’s probably safe to continue using it. However, if you have sensitive skin or a condition like eczema or psoriasis that weakens your skin barrier, you should definitely avoid DIY. We know the temptation: You may be tempted to take matters into your own hands because you don’t know the exact ingredients and concentrations of the products you buy at the store. However, if you’re sensitive, essential oils may be even more damaging than more obvious irritants like lab-created actives. “Retinol and AHAs can also be irritating for sensitive people, but if formulated correctly, using them occasionally shouldn’t be a big problem,” says Shokeen. “However, essential oils can cause significant allergic reactions even at low concentrations.”

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