Why banning teens from buying anti-aging products won’t stop Sephora Kids

And since when has it ever been okay to dictate to teenagers what they can and can’t do?

The California bill (New window) A bill to market certain anti-aging skin care products to children under 13 did not move forward last week, ending Democratic Rep. Alex Lee’s attempt to combat so-called Sephora Kids. (New window) tendency.

The trend of 8- and 9-year-olds using anti-aging skin care products purchased from beauty retailers like Sephora has divided opinion among parents, dermatologists, retailers and social media.

Millions of people watched (New window) He has shared a video condemning it and dermatologists have issued warnings. (New window) Some of these products are not suitable for children’s skin. However, with the bill being rejected and Generation Alpha continuing, (New window) Youth and media experts say banning the products was never the answer to boosting skin care sales in North America.

There are 11.9 million people Get ready with me video (New window) TikTok and Generation Alpha Influencers (New window) She showed off her skin care routine, Transportation Videos viewed millions of times (New window) He commented.

Meanwhile, the global beauty industry is expected to generate $430 billion in revenue in 2022, with skincare making up the majority of that, according to a 2023 report. (New window) According to consulting firm McKinsey & Company.

The real problem is capitalism and its drive to get kids to consume as much as possible, said Shauna Pomerantz, a professor of child and adolescent studies at Block University, adding that the more beauty trends there are on social media, the more kids are motivated to buy them.

The kids just find other ways to get it, Pomerantz told CBC News.

WATCH | Sephora Breaks Down Kids’ Trends:

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Analyzing Sephora Kids trends

Social media has been buzzing about how many teenagers are becoming obsessed with makeup and skincare, in a trend dubbed “Sephora Kids.” CBC’s Anya Zoledewski explains how they’re getting so obsessed, and why experts are divided on whether we should be worried about it.

No problem with the product: Industry group

Shanna MacDonald, an associate professor of communication arts at the University of Waterloo, said the problem lies with social media.

Young girls have always been interested in skincare and makeup, but now social media has accelerated that interest — and that means the risks are higher. McDonald said.

California’s bill, AB 2491, would ban the sale of over-the-counter skin care products or cosmetics that contain vitamin A or its derivatives (such as retinoids or retinol) or alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), or citric acid, to children under the age of 13.

These ingredients, which help increase cell turnover and reduce fine lines, can irritate the skin, causing redness, itching and dryness and may lead to localized dermatitis or eczema, according to a news release. (New window) Regarding the invoice from Lee’s office, he also pointed out that children’s skin is more sensitive than adults’.

The problem is that social media pressures kids to use products inappropriately, the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) said in a news release. (New window) At the end of April.

PCPC is a national trade association in the U.S. that represents more than 600 companies, including Sephora’s parent company, LVMH.

All of the ingredients covered by this bill are safe when used as directed at appropriate ages. said.

Trends come and go, but the underlying motivation for following them remains largely the same. “It’s a game changer,” said Michelle Chen, an assistant professor in Brock University’s department of communication, pop culture and film.

People follow trends because they seek social approval from their peers.

Teenagers are especially vulnerable because they are beginning to forge their own identities, she said.

While skin care products tend to be sold to boys, the beauty industry primarily targets girls and women. Sexist culture and gender double standards, Pomerantz said.

Gen Alpha is driving beauty sales, and some brands are following suit

Canadian beauty sales on the rise (New window) According to global analytics firm Circana, the number of adults in Generation Alpha is expected to grow by 18% in the first nine months of 2023. (New window) Promoting growth Over the next few years.

Social media content is definitely motivating Gen Alpha. Jennifer Famiano, beauty director and industry analyst, said in a May 14 post: (New window).

It’s a game where consumers care purely about aesthetics, and the measure of success is having the enviable “shelf” in a “get ready with me” video showing off their collection.

Others (New window) Brands like Drunk Elephant are seen as status symbols among teenagers. (New window)With its colorful packaging and cute name, Itty Bitty Midi Committee Acid Kit.

In a social media post (New window) Last December, Drunk Elephant released a list of recommended products for kids, which included the $92 Virgin Marula Luxury Face Oil, which claims to address problems like fine lines and uneven skin tone.

None of these are suitable for children. a user wrote in the comments, one of many.

Drunk Elephant makes products for all ages, and it has to be clear which products are appropriate for who, founder Tiffany Masterson said in an Instagram video. (New window) During December.

And what’s great is… they’re learning how to take care of their skin, and I think their skin looks better than a lot of other people’s. she said in the video.

Drunk Elephant markets directly to younger generations, getting kids and parents to pay, Pomerantz said. Huge amounts of money are paid for brand privileges.

This brand has made skin care kid-friendly more than any other brand. She said:

Halifax dermatologist Natalie Cunningham previously said pre-teens should only use gentle cleansers, moisturizers and sunscreens. (New window) CBC News.

WATCH | Social Media’s Negative Impact on Girls’ Mental Health:

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Social media harms girls’ mental health, report warns

Spending too much time on social media is damaging girls’ mental health and affecting their learning, a new UNESCO report warns, and also finds that girls are more likely than boys to have negative feelings about their appearance and body image.

So what’s the answer?

Kids have been following trends to gain acceptance from their peers since long before social media, Chen noted.

After all, in the 1990s, kids were peeling layers of skin off their faces with apricot scrubs and slathering their bodies with benzoyl peroxide acne creams so strong they would bleach their pillowcases.

The difference, Chen said, is that social media creates more pressure and interactions become a kind of social currency.

Meanwhile, influencer culture has normalized the use of luxury products like $100 skin creams, McDonald said, so part of the responsibility falls on families to talk to their kids about what’s appropriate for their skin and to help them recognize that a lot of what they see online is marketing.

But Pomerantz says the skin care industry itself also bears some responsibility.

As long as marketers have preyed on the insecurities of girls and women, they have been buying beauty products and She said:

The skin care industry must take greater responsibility to ensure that their products are not marketed in a way that suggests they are for children.

Meanwhile, Gen Alpha influencers continue to grow their followings online through their activities and routines.

Bought at Sephora! The child who pronounces it says Sepowa In Video (New window) Afterwards, I applied a night cream containing alpha hydroxy acids to my cheeks and forehead to reduce the appearance of fine lines.

WATCH | Media Literacy and Self-Image Tips for Kids:

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Media Literacy 101: Self-Image

Calling the Happiness Hotline helped Janayye discover how to use social media to feel more confident and not overwhelm her space.

Natalie Stetson (New window) · CBC News