From Selena Gomez and Ariana Grande to Sephora teens, it’s hard to find someone who doesn’t swear by retinol these days. Effective against everything from acne to aging skin, this skincare multi-hyphenate is one of the most well-studied ingredients available to us. “Beyond sunscreen, retinoids are the most proven topical option for anti-aging,” says dermatologist Hadley King, MD.
Retinoids work by promoting skin cell turnover. On average, the epidermis (top layer of skin) turns over every month. Retinoids speed up the process to complete turnover in about 14 days, helping to unclog pores and fade blackheads. Retinoids also boost the production of collagen, a protein that plumps and firmes skin, and smooths the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. But retinoids come in many names, which can be confusing.
From retinoids to retinol, tretinoin, and retina, it can be hard to know where to start. We asked the experts to explain the differences between them and break down their benefits, side effects, and uses.
Retinol and retinoids
Ultimately, it’s not a question of one being better than the other: Retinoid is an umbrella term for a variety of vitamin A derivatives, including retinol, retinal, and retinoic acid, says Ruth Jobarte, MD, another New York-based dermatologist.
Retinoic acid is the purest form and is what actually works on the skin. As for other ingredients, “the difference is in the conversion. Retinol has to be converted to retinal first and then to retinoic acid before it can work on the skin. It’s a two-step conversion,” says Dr. Jobarteh. “With retinal, there’s only one conversion step, from retinal to retinoic acid.”
Retinoic acid is available in prescriptions, such as tretinoin, which requires a prescription. Over-the-counter retinoid products typically contain retinol and sometimes retinal.
Stronger retinoids like retinoic acid work better in a shorter period of time but can be more irritating. Retinol and retinyl palmitate-based products are gentler and have a more subtle effect.
Retinol is a retinoid that must go through a two-step conversion process to retinoic acid, a retinoid that can be used by the skin. Retinol is found in many over-the-counter skin care products. Tretinoin is a formulation of retinoic acid that is available only by prescription. It is stronger and more potent than retinol products.
Retin-A is the brand name for tretinoin, a prescription drug that contains retinoic acid. Retinol is a weaker form of retinoid found in many over-the-counter medications.
Types of retinoids
There are several types of retinoids:
- Retinoic Acid: The purest type of retinoid, ready to be applied to the skin. Like tretinoin, it is available only by prescription.
- Retinal (also called retinaldehyde)): Before your skin can utilize it, it must first be broken down into retinoic acid, which is found in some over-the-counter skin care products.
- Retinol: To be usable by the skin, it must first be converted into retinal and then into retinoic acid, which is found in many over-the-counter skin care products.
- Retinyl Palmitate: A milder form of retinol that has undergone an additional conversion step. Perfect for very sensitive skin.
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Benefits and Side Effects
Both retinoids and retinols can be effective against acne, hyperpigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles, and psoriasis. Prescription retinoids and retinals are more potent and require less conversion, so they may work faster and more effectively. However, the higher the concentration, the higher the risk of side effects.
Side effects include redness, peeling or scaling of the skin, and a stinging or burning sensation. These symptoms usually subside within a month, says Dr. King. Another side effect of retinoids is colloquially known as the retinol purge. Some people experience a temporary worsening of their skin when they start using retinol. “Retinol clears out any possible acne formation underneath the skin. It clears out the pores and leaves you with fresh, acne-free skin,” says Dr. Jobarte.
When to Use Retinol and Retinoids
For acne, Dr. Jobarteh recommends retinoids, as studies have shown they are highly effective at improving acne. If your main concern is hyperpigmentation or fine lines, Dr. Jobarteh says an over-the-counter retinol will suffice.
In either case, people with sensitive skin may not be able to tolerate prescription retinoids like tretinoin (or other retinoic acids) and may want to try an over-the-counter retinol product first. “For people who can tolerate stronger over-the-counter products, retinaldehyde is a good choice,” says Dr. King. “For those with more sensitive skin, retinol or retinyl palmitate may be better options.”
Certain prescription retinoids can also be used to treat psoriasis, but they’re not typically first-line treatments, says Dr. Jobarteh.
How to use retinoids
Dr. King recommends starting out by using a pea-sized amount of a retinoid every other day, followed by a moisturizer. Depending on how your skin tolerates it, you can increase the frequency to every night or cut back to every few days. Since retinoids increase your sensitivity to the sun, experts recommend applying them at night. If retinoids irritate your skin, you can also try the sandwich method of applying a moisturizer, retinol, and then another moisturizer, says Dr. King.
Find our favorite over-the-counter retinol products here.
Both Dr. Jobarteh and Dr. King say to avoid retinoids while pregnant or breastfeeding. Also, because retinoids are exfoliating, Dr. King says to avoid them after sunburn or exfoliating treatments like chemical peels, laser resurfacing, or microneedling until the skin has healed. Avoid using retinoids with other exfoliating ingredients. Check out our complete guide on what not to use with retinol here.
FAQ
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Which is better: retinol or retinoid?
Retinoid is a general term for vitamin A derivatives, including retinol, a milder form that may cause less irritation but takes longer to work. More potent retinoids, such as retinoic acid, may work faster but come with a higher risk of irritation.
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Is it okay to use retinol every night?
Some people can use retinol every night without any problems, but others find it irritating to their skin and need to use it every other night or every few nights.
