Strolling through the old town, you’ll see men in bowler hats tottering on stilts and women dressed like greenhouse flowers playing jazz tunes on golden trumpets. . The cobblestone streets below are strewn with flower petals. Tall pale orange townhouses are decorated with showy garlands. The bells of his 12th-century cathedral in town chime merrily. In the cafe-lined plaza, children watch a flower-themed puppet show.
Did you know that?
The jasmine and May roses used in CHANEL No.5 are all grown in protected fields around Grasse. Chanel does not use flowers grown elsewhere.
Taking a break from the heady scents, we headed to Grasse’s International Perfume Museum, a former 18th-century mansion. Inside you’ll find an incredible collection of perfume-related artefacts and paraphernalia from all corners of the world spanning 3,000 years. Marvel at rare flasks containing fragrances beloved by the ancient Egyptians and exotic and beautifully decorated pomanders used by European aristocrats.
• Events in Provence in 2015
Grasse has a square with traditional cafes Photo: Associated Press
Here I learn more about Grasse’s fragrant past. In the Middle Ages, the town produced high-quality but unpleasant-smelling leather goods, especially gloves. To mask the scent, local flower essences were applied, and scented gloves became all the rage. As a result, Grasse prospered. However, new taxes caused the leather industry to decline.
Perfume makers, who create scents, were unaffected and continued to prosper. By the 1700s, more flowers were being grown in the fields than ever before. Grasse soon became known as the Perfume Capital of the World, as increasingly famous perfume companies flocked to the town and formulated scents so sublime.
International Perfume Museum housed in an 18th-century mansion Photo: Alamy
Today, there are fewer perfume companies based in Grasse. Visit Molinard, a French perfume maker founded in 1849. The tour takes you through the distillery and collection of Baccarat crystal and Lalique glass. A highlight is the perfume making session, where you create your own scent from a variety of aromatic and flower oils. I’m happy with the results. It’s uplifting and lingers like a memory of Grasse.
Necessities
directions
EasyJet (0843 104 5000; easyjet.com) offers flights from Stansted and Luton to Nice (the closest airport to Grasse) from £68.99 one-way. Grasse is about a 45-minute drive from Nice, a scenic 68-mile drive. EuropCar (0871 384 1087; europcar.co.uk) offers 5-day car rentals from £254. Taxis, trains and buses are also available. Kirker Holidays (020 7593 1899; kirkerholidays.com) offers his three-night stay at Le Mascandille, a 4-star hotel in Mougins (8 miles from Grasse), including breakfast, return flights to Nice, and car rental. Prices start from £1,049 (2 people share).
• Great city break guide
where to stay
Hotel Le Paty ¥
Located in the heart of the old town, the small but beautiful rooms feature friendly staff and free Wi-Fi (0033 4 9336 0100, hotelpatti.com, doubles from £55).
Le Mas de Naoc ££
Beautifully renovated farmhouse with charming bedrooms, fully stocked Provence gardens and stunning coastal views (9360 6313: viewslemasdunaoc.com, doubles from £144).
Bastide Saint Mathieu £££
A luxurious 18th century country house hotel with beautiful rooms, large pool, landscaped gardens and terrace dining (9701 1000; bastide-stmathieu.com; doubles from £210).
Bastide St Matieu offers luxurious accommodation with mountain views. Photo: Bastide Saint Mathieu
where to eat
Lou Pignatun £
Serving delicious Provençal cuisine, loved by locals (13 Rue de l’Oratoire; 9336 1180).
Madesense £££
We offer creative gourmet cuisine in a beautifully restored country house (291 Route Draguignan, Le Tignet; 9366 1233) with mountain views.
things to see
This year’s Jasmine Festival will be held from July 31st (Friday) to August 2nd (Sunday).
The International Perfume Museum (9705 5800; museesdegrasse.com/en/presentation-museum), located at 2 Boulevard du Jeu de Ballon, is open during the summer months from 10am to 7pm. Admission is free for children and £2.85 for adults.
For more information about all of Grasse’s museums, including the beautiful gardens of the International Perfume Museum and the 17th-century home of Grasse’s most famous painter, Fragonard, visit museesdegrasse.com. His three long-established perfumeries, Molinard, Fragonard and Gallimard, offer tours and perfume-making workshops. For more information, please visit grase.fr.
