The last time I blind-tasted an Old Fashioned, Back in 2018, this cocktail found itself torn between two versions. Some were made by mixing sugar cubes infused with bitters (which you might think of as a more traditional Old Fashioned), while others used sugar syrup as a sweetener (either simple or Demerara). . (The mixed fruits of disco’s Old Fashioned were out there long ago.) Both versions had precedents in the pre-Prohibition era, but the latter, while decidedly less theatrical, The end result is more consistent because no sugar grains are left behind. Glassware has become the modern streamlined standard-bearer over the past six years.
This truth was revealed during a recent blind tasting at a Long Island bar in Brooklyn. There, out of 10 recipes sampled, only one chose to use sugar cubes. Overall, the recipe never strayed from the guardrails of the classic Old Fashioned blueprint of whiskey, sugar, and bitters, only differing in the selection of each required element. It’s a simple drink on paper, but harmonizing these elements is a matter of precision. “This is a razor-thin drink,” said Toby Cecchini, owner of The Long Island Bar. “There’s nothing to hide behind.” Get the quantities, proportions, or preparation wrong and your drink can be too hot, flabby, or too sweet.
The assembled judges were Cecchini, Sarah Morrissey (Le Vaux d’Or), Lucinda Stirling (Owner, Seabourn), myself, Mary Ann Porto (Punch, Deputy Editor), and Annie Harrigan (Punch, Eater). , Thrillist Editorial Coordinator). . Everyone agrees that this drink is best made with below-barrel proof whiskey (rye or bourbon), sugar syrup (“very little,” or less than a quarter ounce, according to Cecchini) and two types of syrup. agreed. A citrus twist of orange and lemon, or “rabbit ears,” for a much-needed bitters kick. “We sweeten it with orange and dry it with lemon,” explains Morrissey.
Where the judges disagreed was over the proper preparation: glazing or stirring and pureeing. Cecchini insisted on stirring before pouring it into the glass. “I pray at the altar of dilution,” he says, adding that stirring lowers the temperature and eliminates some of the common pitfalls faced by drinks, primarily the possibility of being “too hot,” or too boozy. He pointed out that it was definitely avoided. On the other hand, Morrissey and Stirling favored the glass-built approach, believing that it was a better protection against over-dilution, which is one common pitfall. In both cases, the desired result is the same. An integrated cocktail that is aromatic and has a hint of whiskey, with just the right amount of sweetness (which should not be construed as sweet) and dilution (Mr. Stirling recommends stirring it until it dissolves in the glass) is. almost milky white). If the drink is made correctly, Sterling explains, “the first sip should be the peak.”
of clear winner The taste that comes through from the first bite. Tom Macy, who also took top spot in the 2018 tasting, added 2 ounces of Wild Turkey 101 rye, 1 teaspoon of 2:1 Demerara syrup, and 3 tablespoons of his customized bitters blend known as Dad’s Bitters. Make an old fashioned with a dash. Angostura, Bitter Truth Orange, Bitter Truth Jelly Thomas Own Decanter He mixes the bitters, stirs, strains and garnishes with lemon and orange twists. “You can taste both garnishes, but they’re not dominant,” Morrissey said. This may seem obvious as a recipe, but Results of over 40 trials During the production phase, Macy’s Old Fashioned was praised by Mr. Cecchini as “a dead giveaway” and by Mr. Sterling as “by far the best.”
The second place was Old Fashioned by Arvid Brown, of Room for Improvement in Portland, Maine. His version is made with high-proof bourbon, specifically Old Grandad 114, two bar spoons of 1:1 Demerara syrup, four dashes of Angostura, and two dashes of “Rango,” an equal blend of Regan’s oranges. Masu. Bitters and Angostura Orange Bitters. This drink is built into a glass and is garnished with an expressed orange twist and a cherry. The latter was the only quibble among the judges who didn’t think cherries were suitable for drinks. Morrissey described the drink as “fresh” and all the judges were pleased with the drink’s aroma and balance.
Taken together, the two winners seem to prove that what matters most in an Old Fashioned is the selection and interaction of all the elements, whether rye or bourbon, stirred or glassed. For a drink that Cecchini describes as a “slightly inflected whisky,” this one has just the right inflection.
