Summer salad recipes you’ll want to make again and again

Cooked lettuce is the best for those damp, autumnal days when the calendar says summer but the British weather is more like autumn. It’s a variation on a French recipe for braised lettuce with peas and bacon that I’ve tried before in a pub in South East London. This braised dish has a bit of pancetta in it, but most of the richness comes from the lettuce, peas and chickpeas. It’s a great example of using a little meat to add depth of flavour without overpowering the vegetables. Serve with bread to sop up the juices, or, if you want something more hearty, some mashed potatoes that go right to the bone.

Instead of gem lettuce, you could also use larger leaves of romaine, cos lettuce, or slices of endive.

Main Dish for 2 | Preparation Time – 20 minutes

material:

• 100g diced pancetta
• 2 little gem lettuce heads (approximately 100g/31⁄2 oz), cored and cut into quarters
• 2 scallions, finely chopped
• 1 can of 400g/14oz canned chickpeas (drained and washed)
• Frozen Peas 160g/53/4oz
• 200ml chicken stock
• 2 tablespoons crème fraîche
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped herbs (such as tarragon, mint, parsley, or a combination)
• Salt and pepper

Method:

1. Heat a deep, wide, lidded frying pan over medium-high heat (no oil necessary) and fry the pancetta cubes for about 5 minutes until browned. Remove with a slotted spoon, reserving any excess oil in the pan.
2. Grill the gem lettuce wedges in the pancetta oil, cut side down, on each flat side, until they begin to char, about 90 seconds on each side. Using tongs, remove from the pan and set aside.
3. Reduce heat to low, return pancetta to skillet with leeks and sauté for 1 minute to soften.
4. Next, add the chickpeas, frozen peas and chicken stock and then add the charred lettuce, cut side up. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for about 10 minutes or until a knife easily passes through the thickest part of the lettuce stalk.
5. Remove the lid and simmer uncovered for a few more minutes if the soup needs to reduce. Gradually add the crème fraîche, shaking the pan gently to dissolve it into the sauce.
6. Add chopped herbs to taste – it may already be salty thanks to the pancetta, but you can also add a generous amount of pepper.

Potato salad is a must at any summer barbecue, and this is my go-to. New potatoes are sticky and best boiled, but I’m not a fan of their thin skin, so I prefer to roast them until they’re crispy on the outside and soft inside.

I sometimes use thinly sliced ​​shallots instead of scallions, substitute watercress for the dish, or green beans instead of asparagus.

Serves 2 as a side dish | Preparation time – 40 minutes

material:

• 400g/14oz baby or new potatoes, cleaned and left whole if small, or cut into bite-sized pieces
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 150g/51⁄2oz kidney beans, ends trimmed and either halved or cut into 3 x 2.5cm/1 inch pieces
• 2 scallions (thinly sliced ​​diagonally)
• Zest of 1 lemon
• Lots of mint leaves (approximately 5g)
• Salt and pepper

For dressing

• 1/2 teaspoon whole grain mustard
• 1/2 teaspoon honey
• Juice of half a lemon (about 1 tablespoon)
• 3 tablespoons olive oil

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C fan/220°C/450°F/gas mark 7.
2. Place the potatoes on a baking tray, mix with 1 tablespoon of olive oil, season with salt and roast for 20 minutes.
3. Reduce the temperature to 180°C fan/200°C/400°F/gas mark 6 and cook for a further 15 minutes until crisp on the outside and cooked through inside. Remove from the oven and leave to cool briefly, approximately 5 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, make the dressing: Combine the mustard, honey, and lemon juice in a small bowl. Add the oil and whisk until emulsified. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside to let flavors blend.
5. Bring a small saucepan of salted water to a boil and cook the beans for 2 to 3 minutes until al dente. Drain and immediately rinse under cold water until cool. Shake off excess water and place on kitchen paper to dry.
6. To assemble the salad, mix the cooked potatoes, beans, chopped green onions and enough dressing to cover in a medium bowl. Season with the lemon zest and add the mint leaves to the bowl (slicing them will blacken more quickly). Transfer to a serving platter or bowl and serve.

I came up with this recipe a few years ago while on an early summer holiday near Sorrento in the south of Italy. Tomatoes were so amazing that I was always looking for new ways to incorporate them into meals to please my guests. They barely needed a helping of olive oil, salty capers and dill to bring out the flavour. I kept the recipe when I returned to London, where I make it regularly using fresh cherry tomatoes and the biggest tree tomatoes of the season, trying to recreate the taste of sun-soaked tomatoes in Italy.

For a variation, try using roasted peppers or eggplant instead of tomatoes.

Serves 2 as a main or 4 as a side | Preparation time – 40 minutes

material:

• Puy lentils 100g/31/2oz (washed)
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 tablespoons olive oil, drizzled
• 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
• 1 garlic clove, finely chopped
• 3 tablespoons capers
• 300g/101/2 oz cherry tomatoes (halved or cut large tomatoes into wedges)
• 25g/1oz bunch of dill, leaves finely chopped
• A handful of basil leaves
• Salt and pepper

Method:

1. First, boil the lentils. Place the lentils in a saucepan with 300ml water (three times the weight of the lentils) and the bay leaves. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to low. Cover and boil for 22 minutes. The lentils will be tender and ready to eat but still slightly chewy in the centre. Remove from heat and let sit for 5 minutes, then drain. Shake off as much excess water as possible. Discard the bay leaves.
2. In a medium bowl, mix the warm lentils, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, garlic, and capers. Allow the lentils to cool and defrost, then stir in the fresh tomatoes and dill. Season with salt and pepper.
3. Serve on a serving platter, garnish with a few basil leaves and drizzle with another layer of olive oil.

Starting with vegetables: 100 seasonal dinner and side dishes

It Starts with Veg: 100 Seasonal Suppers and Sides, by Ceri Jones (Pavilion Books, £20), out now.