Bengali cuisine is known for its variety of food, especially desserts. A typical Bengali meal includes rice, dal, fish curry or mutton curry. But there’s a surprising twist: Bengalis enjoy at least one tenth (bitter) dish before the main course. One such bitter delicacy is ‘shukto’, a mix of vegetables and bitter soup. Shukto acts as a palate cleanser before plunging into the main course.
The dish features essential ingredients like shoin danta (drumsticks), uche (bitter gourd), bori (sun-dried lentil balls) and an optional topping of laduni (wild celery). Milk and ghee are also added, which give the gravy a creamy texture.
Shukto recipes vary from region to region West BengalEvery region adds its own twist and the choice of vegetables also reflects local flavours. But there is one thing in common – it is prepared with equal quantities of methi seeds, kalonji, jeera, kali sarson and sauf (paanchi phoron). A variation using laduni instead of kali sarson is also popular.
In conversation with Rituparna Patgiri, Assistant Professor and Sociologist at Indian Institute of Technology Guwahati, and Chef Ananya Banerjee, a gourmet expert on a multitude of cuisines, we delve into the origins, history and deliciousness of shukto, exploring its diversity and how it has an important place on our already full plates.
Origin and nutritional significance
“Bengal was colonised by Portugal around the 16th century, and so there is an argument that shukto is influenced by Portuguese cuisine. However, food researchers, bloggers and writers from Bengal and beyond dispute this notion, arguing that shukto was first mentioned in Ayurveda because of its bitter taste, which is highly recommended in Ayurvedic dietary prescriptions,” says Rituparna.
according to Ayurvedic MedicineBitter melon is excellent for balancing Kapha, which is the water and earth element according to Ayurveda. It helps in purifying blood tissue, aiding digestion and stimulating the liver. Bitter melon is also known to help control diabetes. It contains vitamins A, B1, B2 and C. It also contains minerals like calcium, phosphorus, iron, copper and potassium.
This may be why researchers, bloggers and writers argue that attributing shukto’s origins to the influx of Portuguese people is inaccurate, she says. She says many Bengalis have heard of the Mangal Kavya, which mentions shukto. The Bengali religious text, compiled between the 13th and 18th centuries, contains a kavya in which Lord Shiva asks Annapurna, the goddess of food and nourishment, to cook shukto.
We asked Chef Ananya about the main challenges in achieving the perfect balance of flavours in Shukto and she highlighted:
Diverse Materials: Shukuto contains a variety of vegetables. Bitter melon, eggplant, raw banana, radish, sweet potatoEach has its own unique flavour. Precise measurement and timing are required to balance the bitterness of bitter melon with the sweetness of the other vegetables and the richness of milk and mustard paste.
Harmony of spices: Spice mixes often include mustard seeds, panch phoron (a Bengali five spice mix), ginger paste and sometimes fenugreek seeds and must be carefully balanced so as not to overpower the flavors of the dish.
Cooking techniques: Overcooking or undercooking certain vegetables can create an imbalance in texture and flavor. Each vegetable needs to be cooked to just the right degree of doneness to deliver the intended flavor and texture.
Consistency: The thickness of the gravy or soup in a shukto is very important. It should not be too watery or thick so that all the flavors can blend well.
Diverse tastes and traditions
Rituparna adds, “Since shukto is primarily a vegetarian dish, some say there are variations, such as Rabindranath Tagore’s family recipe and the non-vegetarian version found in some parts of Bangladesh and Bengal. In the non-vegetarian version, shukto is cooked with lean fish such as magur (catfish) or roh.”
The dish is associated with Chaitanya’s Bhakti movement and Vaishnavism, but its origins remain a matter of debate, with some claiming it is Portuguese, Bengali or Indian. She also points out that Odisha has a similar dish called “santhura,” and many have debated the potential similarities between the two dishes.
Chef Banerjee says that the layering of flavours in shukto requires careful preparation and sequencing: the bitter melon is fried first, allowing its distinctive bitter flavour to infuse the oil and be distributed throughout the dish.
Vegetables are added in order starting with those with the longest cooking times, such as raw bananas and eggplant, followed by those with shorter cooking times, such as radishes and sweet potatoes.
Adding it gradually allows the flavors to blend seamlessly. Mustard seeds First, the olive oil and panch phoron are tempered to release their aromatic essence into the oil, creating a robust flavour base, then a touch of sugar and milk is added to delicately balance the bitterness without overpowering it, and finally, ghee is added to add depth to the dish and harmonise the complex flavours.
From Bengal and Beyond
In eastern India, many foods share a common feature that extends to Assam. Banerjee, who is Assamese, points out that while he doesn’t remember the exact form of Shukuto, the concept of mixing vegetables is there.
“Shukuto varies from place to place depending on the availability of ingredients. Bitter gourd, or karela, is abundant and spices like paanchi phoron and laduni are typical of East Indian cuisine. The addition of a dash of poppy seeds, a local ingredient, is also a distinctive feature of the dish,” adds Rituparna.
“Shukto is primarily a vegetarian dish and serves as a main course option for non-meat eaters. Experimenting with shukto makes for fun variations,” says Rituparna.
To create a fusion dish, Chef Banerjee recommends incorporating non-traditional vegetables, such as: Zucchini or bell pepper Stick to the original spices and cooking techniques, but add a protein like tofu or paneer to add new texture and nutritional value. For a refreshing taste, consider adding herbs like fresh coriander or mint towards the end of cooking.
She also shares some creative ideas for using cashew nut paste or almond milk instead of regular cow’s milk to give it a nutty, creamy texture. Almond milk is a vegan-friendly alternative.
“To cook tougher vegetables quickly, such as raw banana or bitter melon, a pressure cooker will effectively reduce cooking time. Chopping vegetables and preparing spice mixes in advance will minimise prep work. Using an Instant Pot makes cooking even more efficient, cooking evenly and allowing flavours to penetrate further. If you want to make cooking even easier on busy days, opt for the streamlined version with fewer vegetables but still retaining the basic flavours,” says the chef.
She adds: “Layering spices throughout the cooking process – tempering them at the beginning, adding ginger paste midway and garam masala or ghee at the end – creates a complex flavour profile. A combination of vegetables with different textures – crunchy, soft and creamy – adds interest to the dish.”
Slow Cooking Shukuto Cooking over low heat allows the flavors to meld beautifully. Finally, using fresh, quality ingredients, such as freshly ground mustard paste, adds to the authenticity of the dish.
By following these tips, home cooks can master the art of preparing shukto and create dishes that are authentic yet creatively adapted to suit modern tastes and time constraints.
