I’ll admit that I’ve had ambivalent feelings about green asparagus for most of my life. The spears I ate were often stringy and thin. Sometimes they were downright harsh. Then there were aspara peas. I thought it wasn’t worth it.
A few months ago I realized that I probably wasn’t eating the best spears. I realized this after doing some deep research on asparagus. In my story on this harbinger of spring, I explained how this king of vegetables in California agriculture, a seasonal delicacy exported all over the world, is on the decline in the Golden State.
My research has given me the opportunity to taste delicious asparagus from Firebaugh, California. The thicker asparagus, almost a quarter in circumference, had a meatier texture and a distinct earthy flavor. It tasted like spring. I am now a convert.
Once upon a time, this vegetable was a seasonal treat and a staple of the Easter table. His limited availability in California, from March to May, added to his appeal.
Spears are now available almost all year round. Still, it is recommended to buy and taste vegetables when they are at their freshest, that is, in the spring.
Some may prefer pencil thin or half-inch spears. Personally, I love the big boys.
And now I know what to look for when I go to my local grocery store.
It is important to choose fresh stems. Pay close attention to labels and stickers that indicate where they come from. The freshest spears are produced from farms near you.
One of the most common misconceptions is that the thinner the spear, the younger it is. That’s not true, says Chip Arnett, who runs Mr. Spear. The company buys California’s premium asparagus from the field and ships it to consumers’ homes overnight or within 48 hours.
Arnett said when asparagus is really thin, it usually means the plant is tired or old and isn’t strong enough to push the larger ones out of the ground. It is usually a sign of overharvesting.
What else should I look for at my local grocery store? And how to best store them? Tips from Arnett, who ships jumbo asparagus to Martha Stewart every spring Here are some of them.
- Avoid asparagus stalks that are weak or wilted.
- Avoid getting close to thin asparagus spikes, especially those that have begun to bloom at the tips.
- Look for one with tightly knitted ends. This is a sign of freshness. Tips that appear to be splayed out indicate that the asparagus has been left out for quite some time.
- Spears should have at least 8 inches of green color. Avoid stems that are dull in color. This indicates that it is likely past its prime.
- When you get home with a fresh spear, place it in a glass of water, covering the tip like a flower.
Before we get into the specter of spring, here are some of my favorite edible perennial recipes.
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Steamed asparagus with brown butter sauce
Buttery asparagus by former LA Times food editor Russ Parsons is divine and easy to prepare. You can’t go wrong with a topping of brown butter and chopped herbs. This dish requires medium to extra large spears. Pairing asparagus with wine can be difficult, but we found that the Ullo Cellars 2022 Grüner He was perfect when paired with a felt liner.
Get the recipe.
Cooking time: 45 minutes
(Gary Friedman/Los Angeles Times)
Asparagus marinated in orange and mustard
Marinated asparagus is a delicious way to prepare this spring feast, said cookbook author Lukas Volger. Vegetables are best when they’re very fresh, but stems that aren’t necessarily in season can also be delicious.
Get the recipe.
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Sauteed steak and asparagus fries with dijon sesame dressing
Looking for a leisurely weeknight meal? Ben Mims, a former LA Times food columnist, suggests slicing the meat and tossing it with lightly charred asparagus, then dousing it with mustard sauce mixed with sesame oil.
Get the recipe.
Cooking time: 30 minutes
(Shelby Moore/For the Times)
Asparagus with eggs and anchovies
Asparagus and eggs? Yes, please. Associate Food Editor Betty Hallock and former Test Kitchen Director Donna Dean advise readers to choose spears of the same size so they reach the right tenderness in the same amount of time. Please note the time. Because you want just a soft spear, not a pliable one.
Get the recipe.
Cooking time: 25 minutes
(Genaro Molina/Los Angeles Times)
