“People in the West are more focused on prevention than ever before. Ayurveda focuses on the root cause, not just treating the symptoms. [which is why] “We’re seeing the world start to embrace this powerful practice,” says Michelle Ranavat, founder of skincare and haircare brand Ranavat.
“Ayurvedic lines tend to be more nature-focused, which aligns with the pursuit of clean beauty,” adds Farida Irani, founder of Subtle Energy, which is available globally in luxury hotel spas such as the Mandarin Oriental.
Traditionally, Ayurvedic treatments are based on the individual’s constitution and DoshaAs a result, many skincare brands develop their formulations around these types, which can be confusing to beginners and alienate users who are unfamiliar with Ayurvedic principles.
But these new brands are updating Ayurvedic skin care by taking tried-and-true traditional ingredients and repackaging them into easy-to-use formulations using cutting-edge skin care advances and technologies. Contemporary branding and fun marketing on social media are making these brands more appealing and accessible.
“After giving birth to my two sons, I experienced a lot of postpartum hair loss and my skin looked dull, so I went back to my South Asian roots and started using ingredients like saffron on my skin. The results were amazing, but I could only buy it at grocery stores. Personally, I would love to see luxury Ayurveda accessible to everyone,” says Ranavat, whose eponymous brand launched online and is now sold at Sephora in the US.
“The biggest challenge is balancing time-honoured formulations with modern advancements. We always want to do our best to honour tradition, but it’s important to add formulation expertise and use clinical science to prove their effectiveness,” she adds.
Ranavat’s bestsellers are testament to this philosophy, including the Brightening Saffron Serum, a lightweight version of the traditional formula that contains five grams of saffron per bottle and is made in India in copper vessels over 18 days, and the Fortifying Hair Serum, which contains amla, a powerful antioxidant extracted using state-of-the-art technology without the use of heat or chemicals to preserve the nutrients.
Subtle Energies, based in Australia, also has a new approach to Ayurveda, developed by Irani, who has been an Ayurvedic practitioner and clinical aromatherapist for decades.
“We have been modernizing [our approach] “By fusing the principles and philosophies of Ayurveda with aromatherapy, particularly FloraPharmacy, which stems from Vedic Pharmacopoeia, we have developed new products. Traditional Ayurvedic formulations are effective, but are not always accepted by consumers in terms of scent and feel. We are harnessing the power of aromatherapy while making it more user-friendly,” she says.
When the line first launched in 2010, Irani created a range of aromatic oils using essential oils made from Ayurvedic ingredients. These were designed to be massaged into the body using a technique she calls “aromatic dressing,” allowing users to benefit not just from the oil’s ingredients but also from the ritual of applying the oil.
More recently, the brand has ventured into space, launching new products that combine traditional tinctures like ashwagandha and brahmi with skincare ingredients like collagen, which are combined using techniques like fermentation to increase bioavailability and efficacy. For example, its vegan collagen serum, which the company claims works better than marine collagen, contains a protein that mimics human collagen along with vitamin-rich ashwagandha.
While these formulations have thrust Ayurvedic skincare into the spotlight, its greatest appeal remains its active ingredients, many of which are staples in Indian households and pantries.
Saffron is the most effective, as it is a powerful antioxidant that helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Turmeric is great for fighting inflammation, dark spots and pigmentation. Known for its antibacterial and antifungal properties, neem is good for sensitive skin as it helps repair the skin, while mogra, or Indian jasmine, soothes the skin and aids in cell renewal and hydration. Irani also looks to 24K gold, which is said to improve blood circulation, boost cellular energy and stimulate collagen production.
With so many ingredients to choose from, experts believe Ayurvedic skin care could become a category of its own in the future.
“Green chemistry is an exciting field. I studied Ayurveda in 2001, and this knowledge influenced my decision to create a skin care line using rare ingredients found in abundance in the Himalayas,” explains Kavita Kosa, Founder of Purearth.
“Indian senna polysaccharides have outperformed conventional hyaluronic acid in clinical trials. Saffron pollen has outperformed homosalate, the most widely used chemical sunscreen blocker in the United States. We can cite studies all we want, but we need to put more funding into Ayurvedic pharmacology so that we can realize its true potential,” she says.
