This isn’t just a Tam issue. It’s an industry-wide problem.
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Hong Kong’s traditional Big Pai Don stall struggles to stay open
Hong Kong’s traditional Big Pai Don stall struggles to stay open
Contradictory approaches lead to undesirable results. Some traditional dim sum dishes are disappearing from Hong Kong menus as fewer people make them and traditional techniques are not passed on to the next generation.
Meanwhile, the number of older restaurants in the city is decreasing.
‘Cultural essential’: Why Hong Kong’s Cha Chan Teng is worth preserving
‘Cultural essential’: Why Hong Kong’s Cha Chan Teng is worth preserving
These closures are a huge loss to the city. When an old restaurant closes, not only do its menu items disappear, but so too do the unique décor that reminded us of a bygone era and added immense depth to this city’s culinary identity.
None of these restaurants could have been saved by food guidelines. Worse, they may not be a good fit with the chefs whose collaboration is essential to preserving our food heritage. Some worry that the highly detailed instructions handed down by authorities could stifle creativity and innovation in kitchens.
They have a point. Cooking is a dynamic art, and each chef usually prepares dishes in his own unique way. In fact, experimenting with different techniques and ingredients is part of the job, and such creativity doesn’t easily fit within the boxes expressed in food guidelines.
Thomas Ng Wing Yan, chairman of the Hong Kong Food Council, who helped draft some of the standards, suggested referring to the Greater Bay Area cooking guidelines in the same way as cookbooks and travel magazines.
Although this standard is beyond the radar of many chefs in Hong Kong, it can certainly help spread the excellence of Cantonese cuisine to a wider audience – the many people who enjoy cooking at home. However, in this case, these instructions should be made easier for the average person to follow.
I often watch cooking shows and look for recipes online or in cookbooks to try at home. However, compared to these sources, the Greater Bay Area cooking guidelines are beyond my ability and require skills that I simply do not have. I don’t think I’m an exception.
For example, consider the following criteria: Char siu bao, or steamed buns with chashu. It stipulates that roasted pork belly must be cut into 3mm “nail clipper” thin pieces. Another example is a nine-page guide on how to perfectly boil shrimp.
Such precise guidelines are of little use as a handy reference for home cooks. Rather, they feel forbidden and are more likely to discourage people from trying these dishes at home.
Although these guidelines are well-intentioned, they may do little to help local food cultures and traditions. Let’s hope the government takes more effective measures soon.
April Zhang is the founder of MSL Master and author of the Mandarin Express textbook series and the Chinese reading and writing textbook series.
