Madhur Jaffrey has been writing cookbooks for over 40 years. Many of them are worthy of classics, such as 1973’s “Invitation to Indian Cuisine” and his 2010 “At Home with Madhur Jaffrey.” Her 2015 book Vegetarian India may be her best work.
It is a common falsehood in the Western world that India is a country with a majority vegetarian population. In fact, only about 40% of the country’s population identifies as vegetarian. but! India does indeed have a robust and impressive history of vegetarian cuisine across 28 states and eight union territories, which Jaffrey aims to celebrate.
Travel around the subcontinent in 416 pages
Although Jaffrey is certainly trying, “Vegetarian India” does not fully encompass all of India. Of course, the big cities of the north will also be featured. Mumbai and its surrounding areas will be showcased in different variations of the iconic Toast and the fresh and bold Koshan beer (a style of tangy salad). New Delhi has several recipes, including flaky triangular parathas and a simple green bean dish with cumin, chili and ginger. Then Jaffrey unfurls a coconut-filled beetroot from Mysore in the southwest. A simple fried egg with pickled potatoes from far northeast Nepal and fresh chilli, shallots and tomatoes from Sri Lanka.
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Jaffrey had never cooked since childhood. Her family has a staff of kitchen workers, and her privileged position is reflected in the sourcing of recipes for her book. If she got a dollar for every time she mentioned a recipe given to her by her Taj hotel or a high-class businessman friend, it could pay for your own long-term Indian adventure. Many Indian chefs are also impressed by Jaffrey’s insistence on using olive oil in his recipes rather than authentic Indian cooking fats like sunflower or sesame oil.
Still, having Jaffrey in the kitchen later in life is a boon for home cooks. She’s a relative novice herself, so she writes recipes without making any assumptions. They are obvious. They lead with a sure hand. Most importantly, they work.
A good cookbook has reliable recipes
The book is divided into eight sections: Soups, Appetizers, and Snacks. Vegetables; Dulse: Dried beans and legumes. Grains: rice, semolina, quinoa. Grains: Bread, pancakes, savory, noodles. eggs and dairy products. Chutneys, relishes and salads. Drinks, sweets, and desserts. Of course? Probably not.
Suppose there are potatoes around. Let’s also assume that India’s food pantry is well stocked. Go to the “Vegetables” chapter and find the “p” section and you can choose from his 6 types of potato recipes from all over India as per your desire. Another book might organize recipes by region, but while this approach is appealing, it is less functional.
What’s most impressive is the breadth of the book. Yes, it covers much of the territory of the subcontinent. It also shows how creative and diverse Indian cuisine is. Common vegetables are seasoned in unusual ways. Legumes are cooked into the familiar dal, but they’re also soaked and whirled in a blender, then spun on a hot griddle to make delicious pancakes. This turns everything you thought you knew about the humble bean on its head.
“Vegetarian India” provides comfort and inspiration. You will feel calmer as you reframe your thoughts. A cookbook that can accomplish his one of these goals is a feat. If you achieve all this, you will have a masterpiece near the stove.
