Shreyas Retreat
A longtime New Yorker recently summed up the appeal of the yoga- and Ayurveda-focused Shreyas Retreats in India better than I could: She discovered the retreat six years ago when she asked her husband to take her to southern India for panchakarma, an Ayurvedic rejuvenation program, for her 70th birthday.
She wanted something authentic but not too authentic, comfortable but not so luxurious that it “lost its soul,” as she thought some of the country’s more well-known luxury spas were. “And then I found this place,” she told me over an Ayurvedic breakfast of fruit, honey, and grains. “Everything else was crappy and, you know, like having cows in your dining room.”
She’s been returning ever since, because Shreyas has found the perfect balance. Set on 25 acres on the outskirts of Bangalore, this former millet field retreat has a close connection to nature and a commitment to Indian health and spiritual philosophies, yet it’s comfortable. The accommodation and food are fairly simple, but so high-quality that it’s a member of Relais & Châteaux, a hotel association reminiscent of French palace hotels and fine dining restaurants.
Many of the 14 guest rooms are “tent” shaped, with solid walls, air conditioning, plumbing, but an integrated feel with the gardens. There are a few standard hotel rooms around the pool, but the best of the bunch are the new Garden Suite Cottages, each 1,500 square feet and with a blend of indoor and outdoor space. There are pebble floors and natural stone benches, but honestly, what I loved most was the view from the desk and the patterned wallpaper behind the bed.
Garden Suite Bedroom
But this is one of those places where you’re not expected to spend much time in your room (yes, you can’t sit in front of a computer, but there’s no one watching or judging you). Guests don’t book a room, but rather a package that includes daily yoga and meditation classes, private consultations with Ayurvedic and naturopathic doctors, Indian and international spa treatments, nutritious meals, and more. Stays range from three to 28 nights.
Some guests immerse themselves in yoga: there is daily Hatha and Ashtanga yoga (half primary yoga), as well as soft, gentle wellness aimed at touching on different themes. Shreyas’ name means “excellence in all things,” a reminder that balance is the goal, not excellence in what you love or are good at. Still, it’s all optional, and guests are reminded that there’s nothing wrong with sleeping during yoga.
More rigorous and intensive programs are available for those who wish, including silent retreats, detoxes and Ayurvedic panchakarma, which is described as a five-step system of “cleansing, purifying and rejuvenating” procedures. During my stay, other guests who had come for weight loss, mobility issues and recovery from shingles were all happy with the results. Shreyas also offers online consultations for those seeking “alternative solutions” for post-COVID complications, cancer rehabilitation, gastrointestinal issues and addictions.
The organic food is not particularly spicy, but it is varied and plentiful. Meals are served on the veranda in front of the restaurant, by the pool, or elsewhere on the property. Those not accustomed to vegetarian food may find it light, but servers offer refills (for guests who are not on a strict detox or weight loss regime) and dishes change with each meal.
Poolside breakfast
These servers, like everyone else working at the retreat, practice yoga, meditation and Vedic teachings every day and live by the same principles. Atithi Devo Bhavaor “Treat your guest as an incarnation of God.” Thankfully, this does not mean outright worship, but generous hospitality.
For visitors, these teaching sessions are a highlight: During my stay, guests were raving about one particular instructor, with a smile of happiness that comes from having lived his whole life according to the philosophies he espouses. His spiritual talks are full of advice that sounds corny but actually makes sense.
“The way to be happy is to want less,” he says. “If you’re happy, you don’t want much. If you’re not happy, you don’t want much.”
“Don’t try to be happy later, because it will remain in the future and you will never be happy. Whatever you do, find a way to be happy.” “You can’t make others happy if you are not happy yourself. You can’t share what you don’t have.” “You can’t save the world, but you can save yourself, and that will be one less thing in the world to save.”
And my favorite: “The problem with rats is that even when you win, you’re still a rat.”
