London menswear moves off the catwalk and towards culture and wellness

London – Later this week, menswear will be back in the spotlight when the British Fashion Council announces a new three-day showcase that goes beyond the catwalk and focuses on themes such as craftsmanship, culture and wellness.

The showcase, London Fashion Week June, will run from June 7-9 and will include fashion shows, presentations, trade and consumer events, with the aim of “sparking a cultural moment and showcasing the range, depth and excellence of British menswear”, according to Caroline Rush, chief executive of the BFC.

Rush said the new three-day exhibition, sponsored by French white beer brand 1664 Blanc, was an opportunity to highlight and support the many British menswear companies and dispel some misconceptions about an industry that many perceive as dualistic.

“People think British fashion is either youthful or Saville Row, and we want to show how much there is in between – we want to shine the spotlight on tie makers, hat makers, shoe companies like Grenson and independent direct-to-consumer brands like YMC, Maharishi and Oliver Spencer,” Rush said in an interview.

She added: “The aim is to highlight the city’s points of difference during Men’s Fashion Month.”

Several brands will show on the runway, including Denzil Patrick, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy and Qasimi, but guests should not expect a full line-up of shows.

“This is a city of creativity and culture, and fashion is inextricably intertwined with that,” Rush said, adding that the idea for a more expansive showcase was also a result of changes brought about by the pandemic.

Since 2012, a host of British menswear brands have played a central role in the bi-annual event, London Collections: Men’s, which last took place in January 2020. Craig Green began his career here, showing alongside a range of brands from Martine Rose, Edward Crutchley and A-Cold Wall to Richard James, Hackett and E. Tautz.

(Green will present his Spring 2025 collection at his East London studio on June 5th, separate from the LFW showcase.)

As lockdowns swept across the world in 2020 and 2022, London menswear brands quickly pivoted, with some presenting online in the early days of the pandemic before joining the city’s womenswear calendar in February and September, while others moved to Pitti Uomo or the bigger show weeks in Milan and Paris.

But Rush and his team at the BFC believe London still has a role to play on the international calendar and were determined to give a voice to brands, particularly smaller, independent brands that don’t necessarily show runway shows.

She said the aim of the new June LFW was to provide a platform for designer companies and the different cultures and communities “that have made a rich and important contribution to the UK fashion industry”.

The weekend will mark London Fashion Week’s 40th anniversary with a “40 for 40” schedule, featuring 40 activations hosted by British brands and designers. It will also feature a retrospective showcasing the role the organisation “plays globally at the crossroads of cultures”.

The three-day event kicks off on Friday at London’s Museum of Contemporary Art with a curated program of exhibitions, panels and events inspired by Black culture and centered around self-love, South Asian culture focusing on patterns, textiles and craftsmanship, and queer culture highlighting young, creative voices from the transgender community.

On Saturday morning, West African brand Labrum London will host a running club in partnership with Adidas, while on Sunday BFC will take over Soho’s Groucho Club for Sunday lunch, pub quizzes and other events.

Activities over the weekend will also include presentations from designers and brands such as Claudia Wang and Hari, panel discussions with luxury streetwear brand Crosssurgeon, Gieves & Hawkes, Richard James, London Academy of Bespoke and a look at Savile Row by The Deck, the first women’s tailor to be based on Savile Row.