It is important to strike a balance when treating adult acne. To combat acne and at the same time moisturize and protect your skin barrier, you need to use the right products and ingredients. Skin care strategies to combat breakouts are not the same as those for teenagers.
“After you’re 25, treating acne isn’t about removing oil from your skin,” says Dr. Joshua Zeichner, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. “Dry skin can become irritated and worsen acne breakouts, so you should use gentle formulas with moisturizing ingredients that respect your skin’s barrier.”
The goal of a skin care routine for adult acne is to use the right acne-fighting active ingredients and moisturizing ingredients at the same time to prevent breakouts. The right products (which we’ll get to in a moment) can improve acne, protect and hydrate your skin’s barrier, even out your skin tone, and reduce the appearance of fine lines. Learn why acne occurs in your 30s and 40s and beyond, and how to clear and condition your skin at the same time.
What causes acne?
You’re old enough to use anti-aging products, but you’re still getting acne like you were in high school (even if you didn’t have acne as a teenager). In fact, your fight against blackheads, whiteheads, acne, and cystic acne can last until menopause.
Why is adult skin more prone to pimples? One of the reasons is hormones. Howard Sobel, M.D., a leading dermatologist at Lenox Hill Hospital and founder of Sobel Skin, says hormonal acne is very common in adults and can be caused by pregnancy, menstrual cycles, starting or changing oral contraceptives, etc. It is explained that this promotes the production of sebum, which can lead to acne. Go to the application form. Stress hormones like cortisol can also affect your oil glands, causing them to produce more sebum. (And nothing increases stress like a big, angry pimple!)
Additionally, as we age, skin cell turnover slows down, and dead cells can clog pores and cause acne. Finally, your own skin care habits may be breaking you down. “Over-scrubbing or exfoliating your skin with drying cleansers or acne-fighting active ingredients can dry out your skin, impair its barrier function, and make it more susceptible to irritation that can lead to inflammatory breakouts,” says Dr. Zeichner. say.
The most effective anti-acne ingredient
“There are three main tools we use over-the-counter for acne,” says Dr. Zeichner. “These are salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and a retinoid called adapalene, which is currently available commercially at 0.1%. Salicylic acid is an oil-soluble beta-hydroxy acid, so it removes oil and dead skin cells that clog pores. Adapalene is a powerful multitasker that promotes skin cell turnover, helping skin get rid of sticky dead cells and promoting collagen production over time to reduce fine lines. Benzoyl peroxide is a well-researched, FDA-approved OTC topical ingredient that has been used to treat acne for decades. acne bacteria in pores.
Is benzoyl peroxide safe for acne?
In March 2024, Valisure, an independent laboratory, filed a complaint with the FDA after tests showed that a benzoyl peroxide acne treatment could break down at high temperatures and produce benzene, a carcinogen. We requested a recall and suspension of sales of products containing benzoyl peroxide (BP). This study understandably caused controversy and raised many questions about the safety of acne products containing benzoyl peroxide. (Interestingly, Valisure has a patent pending on how to prevent blood pressure from breaking down during prescriptions.)
So, is topical OTC benzoyl peroxide safe to use for acne? “If OTC benzoyl peroxide products are used at low concentrations, such as 2.5%, stored at the recommended temperature listed on the package, and discarded after the expiry date, the formulation will deteriorate and release a certain level of benzene. “That’s a concern,” says Dr. Zeichner. But if you want to pause about the ingredients for now, there are also plenty of effective acne products that don’t contain BP.
The best skin care to prevent adult acne
This dermatologist-recommended morning and afternoon skin care routine is easy to follow, won’t irritate your skin, and has numerous benefits beyond reducing acne breakouts.
morning routine
Step 1: Wash your face – or just rinse.
While it may be tempting to scrub your face to try to get rid of blackheads, doing so can actually make the condition worse, says Elise M. Love, M.D., of Spring Street Dermatology in New York. “Patients often believe that acne is caused by excess dirt and oil on the skin, and try to over-cleanse or over-exfoliate the skin,” she says. “Regular cleansing is important, but because acne is an inflammatory condition, over-cleansing can actually irritate the skin and make the problem worse.”
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Dermatologists recommend washing your face with a gentle cleanser such as Neutrogena Ultra Daily Face Wash (for sensitive skin). (Unless you have oily skin, Dr. Zeichner recommends just washing your face with cold or lukewarm water in the morning.)
Derm tip: If you have a busy morning, you can also skip step 2 for acne treatment and use a mild face wash that contains acne-fighting ingredients. If you have whiteheads or blackheads, look for one that contains salicylic acid, which removes dead skin cells. If you have red, inflamed pimples, look for a face wash that contains benzoyl peroxide, which attacks surface bacteria. When using a cleanser with active ingredients, Dr. Zeichner says, apply it to damp skin and massage gently for 30 seconds to allow the ingredients to penetrate and do their work.
Step 2: Apply acne treatment
If you chose to use a simple cleanser or conditioner in step 1, this is your chance to spot treat with your desired active ingredient, such as salicylic acid. Apply a lightweight, oil-free serum such as Skinceuticals Blemish + Age Defense with 1.5% Salicylic Acid or The Ordinary Exfoliating Salicylic Acid 2% Solution. Apply one of these to acne-prone areas like your T-zone to keep your pores clear. “To treat red, angry acne, we recommend applying La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo Dual Action Acne Treatment with 5.5% Benzoyl Peroxide as a spot treatment,” says Dr. Zeichner . “Studies have shown that lower concentrations of benzoyl peroxide are just as effective and less irritating than higher concentrations of benzoyl peroxide in treating inflammatory acne.”
acne treatment
SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age Protection
Regular Salicylic Acid 2% Exfoliating Spot Solution
La Roche Posay Effaclar Duo Dual Action Acne Spot Treatment Cream
Step 3: Apply a light moisturizer and sunscreen
Moisturizer may seem unnecessary if you’re worried about oily skin or clogged pores, but the opposite is actually true. “Moisturizers help balance the skin’s oil production. Moisturizers can also help acne sufferers tolerate acne medications,” says Dr. Love. , often dry. The key is to use a moisturizer that is oil-free and non-comedogenic. ”
Instead of layering on another sunscreen, use a moisturizer with a broad-spectrum sunscreen, like Cetaphil Derma Control Oil Absorbing Moisturizer SPF 30, daily. Like many dermatologists, says Debra Jaliman, M.D., assistant professor of dermatology.at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai and is the author of Skin Rules: Trade Secrets from New York’s Top Dermatologistloves the water-based EltaMD UV Clear Broad Spectrum SPF 46 because it contains niacinamide, an anti-inflammatory that reduces redness.
When treating acne, it’s important to wear SPF daily. “Some acne products and ingredients, such as benzoyl peroxide and retinoids, can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight, putting you at higher risk for UV damage,” says Dr. Zeichner. . “Not to mention, sun exposure can increase inflammation and lead to more breakouts.”
afternoon routine
Step 1: Cleanse again at night.
For your nighttime cleanse, you need something that can gently remove the makeup, oil, and debris that has built up on your face during the day, says Dr. Sobel, who recommends a gel-based, surfactant-free product like Vichy Normaderm PhytoAction. A cleanser is recommended. Daily deep cleansing gel containing salicylic acid, loved by GH staff. Dr. Love recommends double cleansing using micellar water first. Try one from Avène or Bioderma, then use a cleanser afterwards.
Step 2: Use a super lightweight moisturizer
“I see a lot of patients who have breakouts but have dry skin,” Dr. Zeichner says. “Products with acne-fighting active ingredients can be drying, so it’s important to use non-comedogenic moisturizers with moisturizing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and ceramides,” he tells his patients. We recommend Eucerin Face Immersive Hydration Night Cream.
Step 3: Apply an anti-acne retinoid
“Adapalene is a retinoid used to treat acne, and the OTC version is very effective at 0.1%,” says Dr. Zeichner. Promotes skin cell turnover and prevents dead cells from accumulating in pores. It also helps remove pigmented cells from the skin’s surface to even out skin tone, and over time, retinoids stimulate collagen production, softening fine lines and tightening skin in the long term. has been proven to be helpful. ” It is beneficial for both acne prevention and anti-aging. Combining multiple drugs in a 24-hour routine is a safe and effective strategy, such as salicylic acid during the day and adapalene at night.
retinoid treatment
La Roche Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1% Acne Treatment
Differin acne treatment gel
Derm tip: Dr. Zeichner suggests applying a retinoid as a second layer after a light moisturizer to prevent irritation.
Can a proper OTC skin care routine really cure acne?
Choosing the right acne products and following a consistent skin care routine can not only help you achieve clearer skin, but also prevent fine lines and age spots. The key is to use products that don’t irritate sensitive skin and to use them day and night. “I tell my patients that acne problems can definitely be controlled, but it’s like exercise, you have to be consistent with your daily routine,” says Dr. Jaliman.
When to see a doctor
The best way to determine the cause of your breakouts is to consult a dermatologist. Dr. Zeichner recommends making an appointment if your OTC topical medications are not working after four weeks. “If you’re diligent about using good skin care for acne, including mild cleansers, retinoids and/or salicylic acid products, and you’re still having acne breakouts, your dermatologist may recommend using topical or oral He will prescribe medicine for you. “Helpful medicine. There are many new topical and oral medications approved by the FDA to treat moderate to severe acne. ”
Marisa Cohen is the editor of Hearst Lifestyle Group’s Health Newsroom and has covered health, nutrition, parenting and culture for dozens of magazines and websites for the past 20 years.
I’m an editor, copywriter, and professional skincare enthusiast.Her work is featured below Cosmopolitan, Harper’s Bazaar, Oprah Daily, Allure, Marie Claire, more. Follow Gina on Instagram.
