When it comes to skincare, retinol is nothing short of magical. This powerful ingredient (also known as vitamin A) is used to treat a long list of common skincare concerns, including fine lines, wrinkles, acne, dull skin, and enlarged pores. It’s the skincare fountain of youth, if you will. But before you put a bottle in your cart, it helps to know how to get the most out of retinol.
Though highly effective, the ingredient can also be confusing, with many misconceptions about its use, so we asked dermatologists Debra Jaliman, MD, and Shari Mulkbein, MD, to clarify some of the biggest questions about how and when to incorporate retinol into your skincare routine.
Meet Our Experts
- Debra Jaliman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in private practice on Manhattan’s Upper East Side and an assistant professor of dermatology at the Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York City.
- Shari Mulkbein, M.D. is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. She specializes in cosmetic and medical dermatology.
Keep reading to learn more about how you can use retinol to improve your skin.
Retinoids vs. Retinol vs. Retinoic Acid
The three R elements are often used interchangeably, but they are not actually the same thing. Let’s clarify the differences between them.
Retinoids
Retinoids are basically a general term for vitamin A derivatives. “Retinoids work by increasing collagen production and skin cell turnover rate. They’re extremely effective at improving skin texture and adding radiance, minimizing fine lines and wrinkles, evening out skin tone, and reducing pore size,” says Dr. Malkbein. “Over-the-counter retinoids are not as strong as prescription medications prescribed by a dermatologist, so if you have oily skin or are prone to acne, you may want to start using prescription retinol right away.”
Retinol
Retinol is a type of vitamin A available over the counter that usually has a lower concentration of the active ingredient. “Retinol contains a lower concentration of retinoids,” Dr. Jaliman explains, “which means it won’t have the same effects as prescription medications.”
Retinoic Acid
Common ester forms of retinol found in these products include retinyl palmitate, retinyl linoleate, retinaldehyde, propionic acid, and retinyl acetate. Over-the-counter retinol is often mixed with moisturizing ingredients to minimize irritation, resulting in lower levels of the active ingredient in these products and reduced efficacy.
These over-the-counter retinols take time to work because they must be converted into retinoic acid at the cellular level of the skin before they become active. “Retinoids and retinoic acid don’t need to be converted,” says Dr. Jaliman. “They work immediately when you apply them to the skin.”
How retinol works
Retinol boosts collagen production and speeds up skin turnover and renewal, which can cause the outer layer of skin to peel off. “When you use retinol, the outer layer of skin peels off, revealing the new skin underneath,” says Dr. Jaliman.
How to use retinol
Dermatologists advise that the best time to use retinol is not in the morning, but during your evening skincare routine. “The most important reason not to use retinoids during the day is that the majority of topical retinoids are inactivated by sunlight,” Dr. Malkbein explains. “However, if you experience dryness or peeling when you first use a retinoid, this can increase your sensitivity to the sun, which is why it’s best to use a retinoid at night, when your skin is repaired.”
As for how to use retinol at night, Dr. Marbein instructs: “I recommend gently cleansing skin at night, patting it dry, and then applying a pea-sized amount of retinoid all over the face.” Her favorites for clean, healthy skin are Simple Micellar Water Wipes, Neutrogena Ultra Gentle Cleanser, and CeraVe Foaming Cleanser.
Contrary to popular belief, there’s no solid evidence that applying retinol to wet skin improves absorption, nor is there any evidence that you need to wait 30 minutes before applying a retinoid, says Dr. Malkbein.
“You can expect dryness and peeling to last four to six weeks, so start with using it three times a week,” says Dr. Malkbein. “Once you don’t experience any dryness or can tolerate it, you can increase to nightly use.” You could also consider applying it on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, she adds.
When to expect results
Retinol products won’t transform your skin overnight, but with continued use, you may notice improvements in skin texture, breakouts, fine lines, and wrinkles.
“The dryness and irritation caused by retinoids usually lasts for four to six weeks, and by that time you may also start to see improvement in mild acne,” Dr. Malkbein explains, “but it usually takes 12 weeks or more before you start to see more noticeable changes in skin texture, reduced wrinkles, and improved pigmentation and pore size.”
Ingredients that should not be mixed with retinol
Like retinol, vitamin C is one of the most popular ingredients in skincare, and Dr. Malkbein recommends including both in your anti-aging routine along with SPF, but urges you to avoid combining them as they serve different purposes.
“Vitamin C serums protect the skin from damage caused by oxidative free radicals and are most effective when applied in the morning,” says Dr. Malkbein, “while retinoids help build collagen and repair the skin, so they’re best used at night.”
Another reason to keep the two ingredients separate is that using them together can irritate sensitive skin. “There are different forms of vitamin C used in products that can irritate sensitive skin (such as L-absorbic acid),” says Dr. Jaliman. “To be on the safe side, avoid using both together as you may experience irritation and discomfort.”
What you need to know before using retinol
Some people report that their skin peels when they start using retinol, but this isn’t proof that the ingredient is working.
“The most common side effect of retinoids is dry skin and irritation, which often lasts for four to six weeks, but some over-the-counter and cosmetic-grade retinoids (retinol and retinal palmitate) work well with little to no dryness or peeling,” explains Dr. Malkbein. To avoid this, do a patch test on your forearm or the side of your neck to see how a new product reacts to your skin.’
And while retinol is generally safe for most people to use, you should avoid it if you’re breastfeeding or pregnant. “High doses of vitamin A can be harmful to an unborn baby and can cause birth defects, so avoid using retinol during pregnancy,” says Dr. Jaliman.
