The folks at Brooks’ House of Bar-BQ helped popularize Cornell Chicken, but they didn’t invent it. Dr. Bob Baker, a Cornell University professor tasked with promoting its consumption after World War II, developed the recipe. It first appeared in a newsletter titled “Barbecued Chicken and Other Meats” in 1950, and included detailed instructions on not only the marinade, but also how to set up the grill for optimal results. Since then, the recipe has been adopted by restaurants across New York State and shared in countless publications.
The key to the success of this recipe is the marinade. Just mix eggs, neutral oil, salt, apple cider vinegar, and poultry seasoning and it’s ready in no time. I usually use McCormick, which has sage, thyme, marjoram, nutmeg, and pepper, but in a pinch you can make your own with a mix of dried herbs. Marinate chicken parts in this mixture for at least 4 hours, but I always marinate for at least 8 hours for the most flavorful results.
The egg is key, perhaps a surprising addition. Joe Regenstein, a professor emeritus who taught with Dr. Baker in the Cornell University School of Food Science, explains: In addition to the emulsion properties of the combination of oil and vinegar, the viscosity ensures that the chicken seasoning remains suspended throughout the mixture rather than clumping at the bottom. Marinated chicken is smeared on the grill using an unused paintbrush. Thanks to the viscosity of the egg, the chicken will remain evenly on the brush. Eggs are also sticky, which helps the marinade adhere to the chicken. Finally, the eggs will coagulate and the marinade will stick to the chicken during cooking. ”
The apple cider vinegar in the marinade serves two purposes. It works by weakening the collagen and protein in chicken to soften the meat, making it more juicy and tender. The fruity vinegar’s unique acidity and bright flavor also permeate the meat. “I can’t help but mention that Dr. Baker was a horticulturist and he had his own apple orchard,” says Dr. Regenstein. “The choice to use apple cider vinegar was not only a nod to New York being the Apple State, but also a nod to his own passion.”
This recipe calls for a neutral oil with a particularly high smoke point, as you’ll be saving some of the marinade for searing before adding the chicken. Grapeseed oil, avocado oil, or safflower oil are good choices because they won’t burn on the grill like more sensitive oils like olive oil. Neutral oils also don’t interfere with Cornell chicken’s key flavor, which is the tangy, vinegary, and herbal chicken seasoning.
Traditionally, chicken is cooked on a charcoal grill, turning and seasoning with reserved marinades until cooked through. Although you can get a decent taste with a gas grill, the deep sear and smoky notes you get from charcoal are an essential part of this dish’s signature flavor.
My version of Cornell chicken can easily be doubled or tripled if you’re feeding a crowd, and you can use any part of the chicken, skin-on or bone-in. I stayed true to the original ingredients, but you can also swap out other types of vinegar or seasonings if you want to try a different flavor profile. Personally, I like to keep it classic. Nothing says summer to me like that first smoky sip.
