Chef’s mission to revive forgotten Lancashire tossette cake recipe

A chef is hoping to encourage kids to get into the kitchen by reviving a long-lost recipe synonymous with the North West of England.

Mike Counsell, from Preston, says tosset cake is similar to goosnargh cake and is named after the village of Stullmine in Wyre.

He said shortbread is thought to date back to the 16th or 17th century, when it was created by Mary, Queen of Scots.

“It’s basically shortbread, but it’s really tasty,” he said.

“Shortbread is basically just flour, butter and sugar, but every bakery makes it a little differently,” said Counsell, a chef in Blackburn.

“Everybody has their own little version of it.

“The tosset is very short, so we use a lot of butter and flour. That’s what makes Starmine unique.”

The 49-year-old said the name may have come from an ancient festival celebrating St Oswald, which evolved into Toswald and then Toset.

“They were made for a wake, which is a ceremony where wreaths are laid on the church grounds, the old wreaths are disposed of and new wreaths are laid – it’s like a funeral, but with prayers said the night before,” he said.

Counsell said Tosetto has a very floral smell and taste because of the coriander and caraway seeds.

“Goosnarg is exactly the same,” he said, “just with less butter and caraway seeds.”

The chef said it’s important to pass on ancient recipes and the best way to do it is to get children involved.

“The country has a long history with food, but traditional foods are disappearing because of the influx of people from different regions,” he said.

“The supermarkets sell everything so that’s what got us out of it.

“But it’s fun to make and it’s something you can make at home with your kids, just put all the ingredients in a bowl and mix with your hands.”

“I hate the idea of ​​food disappearing, so I’m happy I can keep eating.”