The afternoon is utterly silent along the Malecón. Sea salt flavors the warm ocean breeze, and fishing boats float on the promenade overlooking the Sea of Cortez. The vast blue waters known as the World’s Aquarium beckon you. It’s no wonder that countless explorers, from Jacques Cousteau to superyacht enthusiasts like Steven Spielberg, have headed to the remote corner of La Paz. And I? I came for fish tacos, and there’s no better place to get them than Casa Marte.
Helmed by dynamic Chef Héctor Palacios, who was born and raised in La Paz, Casamarte’s kitchen is focused on showcasing the bounty of Baja California Sur, from sustainable seafood to fresh produce and artwork adorning the walls by talented local printmaker Daniel Amora.
Thomas J. Story
Palacios is serious about marine conservation and sharing the region’s magic. He’s an ambassador for COMPESCA, a Mexican organization dedicated to preserving the region’s rich marine resources and aquaculture for future generations. His eyes light up when he talks about Southern California cuisine, or the cuisine of southern Baja California, which he hopes will have a lasting impact on the culinary world in Mexico and beyond.
The young chef is also keen to embrace a new trend that is sweeping the American culinary scene across borders: seafood aging. It may sound counterintuitive, but he dry-ages fish, Agnejand Locally known as “salt-grilling fish,” this method is known for removing any unpleasant odors or flavors from the fish flesh and giving it a refined, tender texture. The technique has long been used by the Japanese but has only recently become popular in Western kitchens.
Thomas J. Story
Palacios’ dry-aging locker ages amberjack from local farm Omega Azul Seafoods, widely known for raising some of the best fish in the industry. While beef may be aged for months, fish is aged in just a few days. The result is a rich, buttery texture that pairs incredibly well with Palacios’s smoky Salsa Morita, which is served as a show-stopping base for lunch or dinner crudos.
The menu also features vibrant, briny oysters from Magdalena Bay (both grilled and shucked), Baja specialty chocolata clams with lemon and salsa, and, of course, Baja fish tacos, battered and cooked to perfection. There’s also a fantastic selection of house-made cocktails with an emphasis on Mexican spirits, and an extensive list of natural wines produced south of the border.
Thomas J. Story
If that sounds like a feast fit for Poseidon, that’s because it is. Proximity to the sea is just part of the appeal. Just two hours north of bustling Cabo San Lucas, La Paz is the capital of Baja California Sur and is experiencing something of a culinary renaissance. Within walking distance of Casamarte is the Baja Club, a swanky new boutique hotel whose restaurant also focuses on seafood, but with a Greek twist. There are also several new restaurants and breweries that are drawing a young, hip Mexican crowd not often found in the state’s tourist hotspots.
If that’s not enough to charm you in what’s quickly becoming one of Mexico’s most exciting cities and you want to cook the food at home, Palacios has some recipes to bring a taste of Baja bliss to your table.
Enjoy a taste of Southern Baja in your own home
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