In January, Carissa Moore shocked fans by announcing she was taking a break from competitive surfing. The 31-year-old Hawaiian-American, who won gold at the Olympics and won the world championship five times, is ready to focus on the next chapter of her life. The 2024 Olympics in Paris will be Moore’s last, at least for a while.
Ahead of APIA Heritage Month, Moore spoke about the next era of “simplifying” her life and why she chose to be vulnerable about her mental health. Read the full story in her own words below. Read more about the mental health journey from an APIA perspective here.
I feel lucky to have grown up in an open family and have always talked about our feelings and shared a lot about what was going on. It’s really built into being Hawaiian. Our Hawaiian community has an idea of the spirit of aloha, which is about showing love and respecting others. We are so open and warm that it influences the way I live my life.
I was inspired by my father to open up about my mental health. When I was in high school, I struggled with my body image and an eating disorder. Many people were jumping to conclusions and writing their own stories about what was going on. And my father said, “Make your story your own, and no one can write it for you.” The positive feedback I got from it was very gratifying and helped me get through what I was going through. I didn’t feel so alone. That really encouraged me and gave me the strength to stay open.
I had to check in with myself and I was like, “Okay, we’re back to square one.” I’ll reset it. I’ll rebuild myself.
Shortly after winning my third world title, I went into a three-year slump. I didn’t feel like doing it. I lacked passion and purpose. It was the first time that surfing was so much fun. I wasn’t doing it for myself, but for others. I hit a rock bottom moment where I felt surfing wasn’t fun and it was seeping into my personal life. I had just gotten married and it must have been the happiest time of my life.
I had to check in with myself and I was like, “Okay, we’re back to square one.” I’ll reset it. I’ll rebuild myself. And it started with simplifying my life. I started a philanthropic foundation, Moore Aloha. This helped me give back, find love, and share surfing with the next generation. Meeting people who are into surfing for the first time helped me remember why I fell in love with surfing in the first place.
There was a lot of inspiration for Moore Aloha, but it really came from this place of wanting to share more love. I know how difficult it is to overcome life as a woman, life and all the pressures and expectations placed on us. So I wanted to create events and programs where women could feel safe coming together, sharing, encouraging and empowering each other. I think there’s something beautiful about being vulnerable and sharing your story, and I think there’s a lot of strength that can come from that. Because when we know we are not alone, the possibilities are endless.
I also have a bag of tools that I use when I’m not feeling well or struggling with depression, anxiety, or stress. A lot of it has to do with movement. I love being in the sea. Surfing is one of my top tools for feeling good. Serving and giving back to others also helps you reconnect with love and your heart. I love keeping a diary every day and have a collection of diaries. I love yoga. Spend time in nature. These are some of the things I like to do to stay healthy and happy.
At the beginning of this year, I made the big decision to step away from competing on the Championship Tour full-time. That’s something I’ve been thinking about for several years. I was exhausted. Competition at the top level is extremely fierce. I needed time to change my focus and follow my joy and follow my heart. The past few months have been fun. I’ve been busy in a different way than usual, and I’m a little less stressed, which makes me really happy. It made me more creative and started thinking about things other than surfing. The best things come when you’re a little bored, a little lost. I am grateful that I was able to give myself the space and grace to figure it out this time.
— As told by Shari Straker. Additional reporting by Yerin Kim
Shari Straker is a social content producer at PS. A graduate of the Craig Newmark Graduate School of Journalism, she has over four years of experience. She currently manages both her TikTok accounts and is obsessed with all things social media, pop culture, and fashion.
Yerin Kim is a feature editor at POPSUGAR, where she helps shape the vision for special features and packages across the network. A graduate of Syracuse University’s Newhouse School, she has over five years of experience in the pop culture and women’s lifestyle fields. She is passionate about spreading her cultural sensibilities through the lens of lifestyle, entertainment, and style.
