In cosmetic medicine, Botox treatments for the crown of the head and similar botulinum toxin treatments remain popular for helping to minimize the lines and wrinkles that naturally form as we age.
However, it is no exaggeration to say that we are interested, as a new treatment that is said to have the potential to rejuvenate skin, ignoring age, has become a hot topic overseas.
Exosomes and exosome therapy are the latest hot topic in dermatology, and the premise is that active ingredients are selected from young tissues and used to transform one’s own tissues. Exosomes are nanoparticles that are naturally released from cells in the human body.
From a cosmetic standpoint, exosomes isolated from a donor and applied or injected topically can signal unhealthy cells to stimulate cell regeneration, causing the skin to behave like younger skin at a deep cellular level. The idea is that it may help.
That’s terrible. Appearance and aesthetics experts warn that while the potential is promising, further research and long-term studies on the use of exosomes, including safety and efficacy, are critical. Given that human stem cells are the source of many of the exosomes used, questions regarding the ethics and parameters of how exosomes are harvested for commercial aesthetic use have been raised to help fight off the signs of aging. can be a barrier for many people interested in.
proceed with caution
Although available in some overseas markets as included in skin care or applied during microneedling, exosome products and treatments are still considered experimental.
Although they are not widely available (or often legal), there are some limitations to their use and description of what they can accomplish. The FDA has been cracking down on promoted stem cell and exosome therapies, as they have not yet been cleared or approved by the FDA in the United States. Some companies have been reprimanded by the FDA for touting results that have not yet been proven by research.
New Zealand’s new government has declared that it will repeal the Therapeutic Products Act 2023, but the exact status of exosomes remains unclear at this time.
But given the growing discussion and attention globally, and especially from South Korea, a hotbed of aesthetic development, we can expect to hear more about this area this year and beyond. .
How exosomes work
Unlike other skin care ingredients that are derived from plants, nature, or created in a lab, exosomes are most often harvested directly from human or animal cells. Research is also developing similar plant-based extracts called “plant-based exosome-like nanoparticles.”
“Exosomes are very small nano-sized vesicles (like micropackets) released by cells that contain various proteins, lipids, and genetic material such as mRNA and miRNA.” Dr. Catherine Stone, who runs it, explains: Face Place is a beauty clinic that has been operating for over 20 years.
“They essentially function as inter- and intracellular messengers, regulating gene expression, altering the intracellular microenvironment in which they are applied, and inducing cell differentiation with the clinical purpose of improving cellular health. It works.”
The cosmetic medicine expert, who spends a lot of time keeping up with industry trends and also works as a trainer for Allergan, the maker of Botox and Juvederm fillers, says one of the appeals of using exosomes is that states that it is something that is not considered to be easily recognized by the general public. Strengthens the immune system and reduces the chance of rejection.
In addition to skin treatment, many uses are being investigated in the medical field.
Exosomes are being investigated not only for regenerative medicine (in one study to repair cartilage around joints), but also as a potential treatment for neurological, cardiovascular, and degenerative diseases. Even the possibility of early diagnosis of cancer through this method is being investigated.
“In terms of beauty, exosomes can reduce wrinkles, improve pigmentation, stimulate collagen and elastin to increase skin texture and elasticity, and reduce inflammation and damage caused by UV-B in sunlight. “It’s being touted as a way to do that,” says Dr. Stone.
where did they come from?
Dr. Stone says that since exosomes are naturally produced in the body by various cells and body fluids, the question arises as to where clinics get their exosomes from.
“They are often obtained commercially from stem cells or stem cell culture media, most often from adipose, bone marrow, or placental stem cells,” she says.
What is unclear is the different ways to produce exosomes and the wide variety of sources. The screening process for willing donors and potential ethical issues, including around consent, are important, especially if donors are financially compensated (which can lead to exploitation of vulnerable people).
Differences in treatment options and lack of consensus on safety and best practices are also major obstacles that still need to be overcome. Human-derived exosomes are not legal in many markets.
“As with any industry, unfortunately some companies will cut corners to make more money,” Dr. Stone says. “This is even more important when you have a human or animal donor source that can cause infections. and be aware of the potential risks of allergies and reactions.
Another possibility is self-exosomes. This is taken from our own bodies and during the currently available PRP (platelet rich plasma) skin treatment, now known as the ‘Vampire Facial’, plasma is separated from the patient’s blood; This method involves re-injection via microneedles.
The downside is that it is thought that the younger the person who ingests it, the more active the exosomes are likely to be. So if you use your exosomes at his age of 60, they will be exosomes taken 60 years before him and will not be as effective as exosomes taken when he was 20.
She says the ideal source is umbilical cord blood, which is stored at birth and is unavailable to most of us, but may be available to future generations.
How are exosomes delivered?
Injectable exosomes account for much of the current research. Dr. Stone said medical science is investigating intravenous (IV) administration for cardiovascular, neurological and degenerative diseases, and direct muscle (IM) administration for musculoskeletal disorders.
Topical aerosol sprays of exosomes have been studied by spraying onto wounds and ulcers with the aim of aiding in their healing.
In the current in-clinic cosmetic use that has been introduced overseas, topical exosome preparations in serums or gels are applied to the surface of the skin after procedures such as microneedling. Microneedles provide microchannels that help formulations penetrate deep into the skin and target tissues. Some clinics promote its use in hair regrowth.
More regulation needed
Dr. Stone, owner and director of The Face Place, says the use of exosomes is widely discussed at international industry conferences she attends. Although she is being very careful, she says the consensus at these meetings and scientific studies is that more serious studies are needed to prove its safety and effectiveness. .
“I think there is more regulation planned for this industry to protect consumers, and I welcome that,” she says.
Dr. Stone says theoretical concerns raised in the research literature include the risk of allergic reactions, immune reactions, and the potential to promote cancer.
“If administered after skin pricking, expect the usual swelling, bruising, redness, bruising, and heat that can occur during the needle pricking process. Less commonly, rash, itching, tenderness, Reactions such as raised bumps under the skin have been reported.
Therefore, while the buzz around exosomes is growing, it remains to be seen how these potential issues will be resolved and how treatments will evolve and be adopted in the future. If this technology addresses issues of stability and skin permeability and can be effectively applied to over-the-counter skin care, it has the potential to transform our daily moisturizers and serums, and ultimately our products.
skin, may be important.
