Image credit: © Angelina – stock.adobe.com
As the extracellular matrix (ECM) plays a pivotal role in periorbital skin aging, cosmetic ingredients with the ability to rejuvenate the ECM represent a rational approach in formulating effective anti-aging eye creams.1 Recent studies have shown that a new eye cream formulated with active complexes (yeast/rice ferment filtrate, N-acetylneuraminic acid, palmityl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7) can effectively address aging concerns such as periorbital wrinkles, loss of elasticity and reduced hydration.2
Survivability
The study used human dermal fibroblasts (HSFs) that were cultured until they reached the exponential growth phase and then incubated with fetal bovine serum. After being left overnight, the medium was replaced with a serum-free sample containing RFFs, peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7), and AA conjugates. After 24 hours of incubation, the researchers said they added CCK-8 solution (Beyotime Biotechnology Co.) and assessed cell viability by measuring the absorbance at 450 nm after a two-hour incubation period.
Anti-Aging Rating
The study states that HSF cells in exponential growth phase were cultured with fetal bovine serum for 24 hours. The active complex (containing 0.25% RFF, peptides (0.0002% palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and 0.0001% palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7), 0.1% AA) was applied, and the medium was incubated for another 24 hours. Total RNA of the cells was then extracted, and quantitative polymerase chain reaction (qPCR) was used to measure the mRNA expression of collagen type I (Col I A1), collagen type III (Col III A1), collagen type IV (Col IV A1), elastin, and fibronectin.
Collagen and elastin synthesis assessment
HDF cells were cultured overnight on glass coverslips before being treated with the active complex for 24 hours. After treatment, the cells were fixed with 4% paraformaldehyde, washed with PBS, and incubated overnight with specific antibodies against human Col I A1, Col III A1, and elastin, the researchers wrote. After further washing with PBS, the coverslips were incubated with fluorescently labeled secondary antibodies at room temperature, the study stated. After further washing with PBS, the coverslips were mounted on microscope slides with DAPI and sealed. Fluorescent staining was observed using an Olympus fluorescent microscope, and Image J software was used to quantify the fluorescence intensity.
Clinical Trial Parameters
According to the researchers, the clinical trial involved 37 women aged between 20 and 55 years. During the study, subjects were instructed to apply the eye cream to the periorbital area of one eye (treatment side, control side) twice a day, in the morning and evening. The application continued for 12 weeks. Several biophysical methods were used to evaluate clinical skin parameters.
In this study, dermatologists also conducted a comprehensive visual and sensory assessment of each subject that focused on the condition of the periocular area. Assessments were conducted at 4, 8, and 12 weeks and included indicators such as ptosis, undereye wrinkles, crow’s feet, and periocular elasticity, firmness, and plumpness. Participants also completed a self-assessment questionnaire regarding the efficacy and safety of the eye cream at baseline, 4 weeks, 8 weeks, and 12 weeks.
Inspection results
The researchers found that all samples used in cell viability testing were over 90%, suggesting no toxicity to human fibroblasts. Furthermore, they reported that the active complex containing RFF, peptide, and AA could “significantly” promote fibroblast proliferation compared to untreated controls.
The researchers reported that 24 hours after treatment, mRNA levels of Col I A1, Col III A1, and Col IV A1 increased 1.8-, 2.5-, and 2.8-fold, respectively. They noted that elastin mRNA expression in treated human fibroblasts increased approximately five-fold compared to untreated controls. Additionally, fibronectin mRNA expression, which is essential for the integrity of ECM structure, increased 1.6-fold with active complex treatment.
The researchers found that the treatment “significantly” increased Col I and Col III expression in HDFs, enhancing red fluorescence compared to the control group. They also noted that elastin expression improved after treatment with the complex, with quantitative analysis confirming increased expression of Col I, Col III, and elastin.
Clinical Results
During clinical trials, the study found that after two weeks of application of the cream, moisture content in the treated skin increased by 5.8% compared to the control side. The researchers also noted that moisture content increased by an additional 14.1%, 20.9%, and 28.1% after four, eight, and 12 weeks of use of the eye cream, respectively. The researchers also found that collagen density increased by 7.3% in the treated side compared to the control side after just two weeks. The study noted that extended use of the cream for four, eight, and 12 weeks increased collagen density by an additional 17.5%, 20.0%, and 55.0%, respectively. Finally, the study found that skin elasticity “significantly” improved after four weeks of use. The researchers noted that the eye cream effectively promoted collagen production and reduced the appearance of periorbital fine lines and wrinkles after 12 weeks of use.
Through clinical evaluation, the study found that after eight weeks of use, aging indicators such as outer eyelid sagging, under-eye wrinkles, crow’s feet, periorbital elasticity, firmness, and plumpness were improved compared to the control group. Researchers noted that the results became more pronounced as the duration of eye cream use extended to 12 weeks. Dermatologists evaluating participants reported no adverse events during the study.
After four weeks of use, most study participants reported improved skin radiance, hydration, brightness and texture, and after eight and 12 weeks of use, they expressed “high satisfaction” with the cream’s effectiveness in reducing fine lines and wrinkles and improving elasticity and firmness. Not only did all participants report that the cream felt mild and comfortable when used, but those with sensitive skin reported reduced burning, itching, stinging, scratching and tightness.
Conclusion
The study concluded that the eye cream demonstrated “exceptional” rejuvenation of periorbital skin by enhancing ECM components. The researchers noted that in vitro studies demonstrated enhanced collagen, elastin, and fibronectin synthesis, while clinical results showed improved hydration, reduced wrinkles, and increased skin elasticity. For further validation, the researchers suggested that further studies should incorporate a double-blind, placebo-controlled study design.
References
- Pilkington SJ, Belden S, Miller RA. “Tear trough trickiness: a review of topical cosmeceuticals for periorbital skin rejuvenation.” J Clinée Esthe Dermatol2015;8(9):39-47.
- Yang F, Zhang X, Wang H, et al. “Comprehensive evaluation of the efficacy and safety of a new multi-ingredient anti-aging topical eye cream” Skin Research Technology 2024;30:e13790. https://doi.org/10.1111/srt.13790
