I am experiencing “monkey mind,” my meditation teacher says.
This is when I first came across the ancient Buddhist concept of a distracted mind that jumps from thought to thought.
Enlightening meditation classes like this one are a staple at Aleenta Retreat Chiang Mai, a retreat in northern Thailand that was named the world’s best new wellness hotel in National Geographic Traveler’s most recent Hotel Awards.
The accolade has huge global implications given the fiercely competitive wellness industry, which is currently estimated to be worth £4.4 trillion ($5.6 trillion), according to the Global Wellness Institute.
The 44-room resort opened last year and is steps from Chiang Mai’s night market, handicraft boutiques and more than 100 gold-leaf temples. But despite its urban postcode, Aleenta is quiet, because it’s on the edge of the city, closer to the forested hills of Doi Suthep Mountain than the traffic of the center.
Heavy wooden doors lead into a tranquil courtyard. Layouted like a small village, the retreat is made up of mostly traditional teak buildings dating back 200 years. These honey-coloured buildings were part of the package when the land was acquired by the Akarin Hotel Group, which also owns two other Aleenta retreats in southern Thailand.
Today, the place is a mix of old and new: period buildings have been renovated with cool terrazzo floors and geometric tiles to house bars, restaurants and a tranquil spa, while newly designed guesthouses feature stonework inspired by Chiang Mai’s ornate temples.
A Feng Shui master designed the retreat’s “flow,” and abundant vegetation enhances the serene atmosphere.
Coral vines creep up the walls of my one-bedroom pool residence and shed petals into the private plunge pool. Stepping inside the villa, the trappings of healthy living greet me: homemade trail mix and cacao balls as snacks in the minibar, a yoga mat in the corner and a wardrobe containing a “zen set” — a cream shirt and trousers to wear while working out, sleeping and floating around the property.
It’s easy to see why hotel manager Thomas Singenberger likens the experience to “glamping” – guests can prioritize their wellness without giving up luxury.
He says Aleenta has “hosted quite a few guests who were suffering from burnout and just wanted to rediscover themselves.” Such soul-searching is facilitated by the intensive Ayura retreat program, which includes mindfulness-focused walks along jungle trails and health checks with the resident “wellness master.”
Particularly popular with European and American guests is the Vipassana Deep Meditation package (from 17,000 baht/£372/$467 a night) which offers a “monk-level” meditation experience – a rigorous spiritual discipline that involves days of meditation with saffron-robed monks at a local temple.
Guests who don’t feel comfortable with the rigors of such a program can try out a complimentary wellness class in the bright Higher Purpose room. I fall into that category.
My days are shaped by a diverse curriculum: one hour I’m taking a class on pranayama, the ancient technique of controlling the breath, and the next I’m signing up for a session of Tibetan singing bowl therapy. My wellness instructor gently offers advice on how to continue all that I’ve learned after I leave the hospital.
Feel-good feelings are further enhanced by The Garden Restaurant’s beneficial “wellness menu,” with dishes like quinoa salad, cold-pressed extracts and egg-white frittata.
The spotlight on healthy eating doesn’t mean alcohol or home-cooked meals are banned — on the contrary, the restaurant’s trump card is northern Thai cuisine, from bowls of creamy khao soi curry to coconut-dusted treats presented on gilded cake stands.
At dusk, I climb the teakwood staircase to 1892 Bar. The lighting is velvety soft, and a 19th-century Swiss piano sits in the corner. A dapper bartender tosses ingredients into the air as he makes a lychee cocktail with local vodka. “Perfect,” he says, garnishing it with a piece of edible gold. I take a sip and realize the sweetness is just right.
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When you retire to bed at night, you’ll find a Thai bedtime story laid out on your 400-thread-count sheets – a thoughtful pre-sleep ritual at Aleenta.
I chatted to another guest during my morning exercise class, and she told me that after a few days here she felt “rejuvenated,” adding that she was “glad to have found this place.” I agree.
Some come to Aleenta to combat fatigue, while others use it as a base to explore Chiang Mai – whatever your reason for visiting, this is the place to unwind and unwind from everyday life.
