You can use any summer squash. You don’t have to be limited to zucchinis or crookneck squash. Hetty Louis In a recent article, McKinnon wrote: Cookbook “Tenderheart: “A Cookbook About Vegetables and Unbreakable Family Bonds” (Knopf, $40), “In terms of flavor and texture, some summer squashes are less moist, some more nutty, and some harder, but they’re mostly interchangeable, making them a seasonal treat when used in summertime cooking.”
The suggestions below employ strategies for this season, but experiment with what you like: “Summer squash is bland, but that makes it an amazing pairing with all the summer herbs and vegetables,” wrote Deborah Madison in 2013’s “Vegetable Literacy” (Ten Speed, $40). “Its neutrality actually makes it extremely versatile.”
Small (6 ounces or less)
Small, early-season pumpkins don’t need much decoration and are delicious raw. “Six Seasons: A New Way With Vegetables” (Artisan, $40), the 2017 cookbook, writes: “When I can get them really young and fresh, I always cook them raw,” chef Joshua McFadden said. “These tough specimens also make great pickles, as they can be sliced very thinly with a slicer into pliable ribbons.”
Use a vegetable peeler or slicer to slice paper-thinly and spread on a plate. Drizzle with the best extra-virgin olive oil, lemon juice or white wine vinegar, and sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper. For a fuller flavor experience, check out Ariel Johnson’s new book, “Flavorama: A Guide to Unlocking the Art and Science of Flavor” (Harvest, $40). Then she adds a dash of MSG: “This gives (the pumpkin’s) silky texture a really rich, full-bodied taste, and enhances the saltiness and sweetness and cuts down on the bitterness,” she said.
Or, treat thinly sliced pumpkin like a cucumber and pickle it — any quick pickling brine will do, as the moisture content is similar. Pumpkins are especially great as bread and butter pickles. Stir 1 thinly sliced shallot and 1 tablespoon kosher salt in a medium bowl. Cover with ice and let sit for 30 minutes, then drain, rinse and pack into sterilized jars. To make the brine, combine 3:2:1 apple cider vinegar, sugar and water in a small saucepan. Add a few pinches of mustard powder, a pinch of turmeric and 1 whole clove. Bring to a boil to dissolve the sugar. Pour immediately over the squash and allow to cool before serving.
Medium (8 oz)
Slightly larger pieces taste best seared on a grill, under a broiler, or in a skillet with hot olive oil over high heat. “I always use high heat when cooking pumpkin,” says McFadden. “Pumpkin needs to be cooked quickly at a high temperature, which browns the outside and intensifies the flavor, and keeps the flesh from overcooking and becoming mushy.”
If you have time, you can salt the pumpkin before cooking it, just like you would the eggplant. Letting the pumpkin sit with the salt for 30 minutes will allow excess moisture to escape and make it easier to brown without becoming mushy. If you’re pressed for time, seasoning it just before cooking will prevent any moisture from seeping out and interfering with the browning process.
To grill or broil, slice the pumpkin. Vertically, Slice into slices about 1/2 inch thick. Set grill to highest heat or rack closest to broiler to high. Grease grill or place wire rack on baking sheet. Brush squash lightly with olive oil, sprinkle with salt, and grill over high heat until it begins to char. Then flip and cook second side, which always cooks faster than the first side.
To bake, slice the pumpkin Slice the squash into 1/4-inch thick slices and place in a heavy-bottom skillet over medium-high heat in oil. Keep the squash in a single layer. Depending on the quantity and size of the skillet, you may need to cook it in batches, as you would with meat. Once the slices are in the pan, sprinkle with salt. When they start to brown on the first side, flip them over and sprinkle with more salt.
Lemon zest, lemon juice, coarsely chopped soft herbs (mint, parsley, dill, basil – your choice), toasted nuts or breadcrumbs are easy ways to lovely garnish your charred pumpkin.
Large size (12 oz)
As squash gets larger in late summer, it’s best to cook it longer so the flesh softens. The easiest way is to cut it into cubes or thick wedges and cook it slowly in melted butter over low-medium heat. You can do this with just the squash, or you can sauté an onion, garlic, and an anchovy or two before adding the squash. Plan on cooking for 10 to 15 minutes. The flesh should be tender, but not so tender that it falls apart. Don’t worry if the skin darkens and browns. “Cook it long enough to really bring out the pumpkin flavor,” says Madison. “I tend to undercook vegetables, which isn’t a good idea for summer squash. If you overcook it, it can end up tasting like pumpkin.”
Larger pumpkins are also great for mixing into soups, which can be made by sautéing small chopped onions in olive oil over medium heat until soft. 1 pound shredded pumpkin with enough water to cover. Season with salt and bring to a low simmer. Continue simmering until vegetables are tender. It’s very tender. Remove from heat and blend with a spoonful of umami-packed white miso until smooth. Add a drizzle of cream or a splash of full-fat yogurt. Add water to thin, if desired. Chill, season with salt and pepper, and serve with a drizzle of olive oil.
Yotam Ottolenghi, in his 2014 book Plenty More (TenSpeed, $35), introduces the idea of searing whole zucchinis for a dip, another great way to transform an oversized squash. “I don’t know why we don’t sear more zucchinis,” he writes. “It’s revolutionary to add a smoky flavor to an otherwise bland flesh.” Once charred and soft, peel them, drain off excess water in a colander, and mash them in a bowl with garlic, yogurt, and lemon. MacKinnon uses a similar tactic, searing whole zucchinis in a skillet, then adding tahini, lemon, and oil to create a baba ghanoush-style dip. In either variation, a drizzle of chili oil on top is a nice touch.
Maximum (over 1 lb)
McFadden believes in not using summer squash unless they’re tiny, but giant pumpkins harvested late in the season can also work. Grate them in a box grater to take advantage of their moist, fibrous texture. Larger squashes tend to have a bland flavor, so grating them makes them an easy “hidden” vegetable in a dish. Dinner for picky kids.
Finely grated pumpkin is a great addition to ground meat when making burgers or meatballs. The extra moisture and fiber in the pumpkin keeps the lean meat moist even after it’s fully cooked. Add about 1/2 cup of grated pumpkin. Add 1 pound of ground beef to the same amount of breadcrumbs, season with 1 teaspoon of kosher salt, and form into patties or meatballs. Sear or grill on all sides until cooked through.
Add some flavor to your burger. “In “I Dream of Dinner (So You Don’t Have To)” (Clarkson Potter, $29.99), Ali Slagle uses fennel seeds, red pepper, and other herbs. He adds chilli flakes and fresh dill to the ground meat, boasting that the meat can’t get dry “because there’s amazingly juicy zucchini all around,” or goes Sichuan-style with ginger, scallions and sesame oil, and tops it off with a little sprinkling of chilli crisp when serving.
To use up even more pumpkin, try another of Slagle’s ideas: Saute grated string pumpkin (up to 2 pounds) in oil or butter until almost completely melted, pureed, and beginning to brown. Stir in a little broth or water, if desired, and add a splash of lemon juice or vinegar before tossing with al dente pasta. You can use any garnish you like to accompany the pasta: grated Parmesan, fresh herbs, toasted breadcrumbs, toasted nuts, or all of the above.
By the time August rolls around, I hope you’ll be enjoying pumpkins more than ever before. Over years past, you might think of them like MacKinnon: “rays of sunshine on our plates, the dazzling stars of our summer meals.”
Sign up for the AJC Food & Dining newsletter
See more similar articles Like Atlanta Restaurant Scene on FacebookContinue @ATLDiningNews on Twitter and @ajcdining on Instagram.
