Raw broccoli slaw with spicy Asian dressing. Photo / Annabel Langbein Media
At age 20, he started working at KFC, working four jobs at the time, including running a possum-catching line and tanning leather.
I got into business to pay the mortgage on the house my then-boyfriend and I bought, to support his four young children, and to put up with his heavy drinking. As the saying goes, love is blind.
Three times a week, I put on my uniform, put my long hair in a braid, and cycled to work at KFC in downtown Gisborne. We were trained to upsell with every order: “Would you like fries or mashed potatoes and gravy?”
In the fridge were stacks of little white plastic pots filled with the Colonel’s signature creamy coleslaw, whose only veggies were shredded cabbage, carrots, and onions, but the creamy dressing was infused with a pleasant hint of horseradish, which you wouldn’t notice if you didn’t know it was in there.
Apparently horseradish is out of the question these days. But one thing I learned from my time working at KFC is to add a little horseradish to your coleslaw dressing. It tastes great with cabbage. I often make a fat-free dressing with a tablespoon of horseradish, another tablespoon of mustard, a tablespoon of rice or apple cider vinegar, and a pinch of salt and white pepper. It goes well with cabbage-based coleslaw, beet salads (raw and cooked), and both crunchy and bitter vegetables.
Even in the winter months, we crave fresh, vibrant flavors. Coleslaw, in any form, is a great way to satisfy that craving. It goes well with mashed potatoes, stews, pan-fried fish or roasted chicken, and is also great in tacos or Middle Eastern wraps. This salad originates from the Dutch word koolsla, which means “cabbage salad”, but has spread all over the world with different flavor variations. Besides cabbage, coleslaw can be made with raw Brussels sprouts, broccoli, celery, and kohlrabi. Italians add cooked ham and sliced bell peppers, while the Japanese often garnish their raw cabbage salad with bonito flakes. Corn, apples, celery, beets, crispy bacon, citrus fruits, wasabi, grated cheese, pineapple… you can put a lot of different things in your coleslaw (but not all together if possible!).
In my opinion, the cabbage should be cut as finely as possible. I usually use a slicer, but if the cabbage is very tough, I cut it into quarters and use a vegetable peeler to scrape thin slices off the cut ends. For juicy results, massage the cabbage between your hands to release some juices before adding the other ingredients. Once the slaw is tossed with the dressing, it will take about 20 minutes to soften slightly. The cabbage will release moisture as it sits, so if you are storing it for more than a few hours, it is best to add the dressing just before serving. Alternatively, you can thicken it by mixing mayonnaise, sour cream or Greek yogurt.
Raw broccoli slaw with spicy Asian dressing
Ready in 10 minutes
Serves 4-6
1 large broccoli, washed
½ teaspoon salt
dressing
1 long red chilli pepper, seeds removed and finely chopped
2 tablespoons neutral oil
2 tablespoons lime or lemon juice
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon grated ginger
Optional: 2 tablespoons black sesame seeds
Cut the broccoli stems, peel and thinly slice. Slice the head as thinly as possible. Place the sliced broccoli in a mixing bowl with the salt and massage with your fingertips until slightly soft. Combine the dressing ingredients in a small jar. Stir into the broccoli and serve. If using sesame seeds, mix them into the dressing.
Red cabbage and beetroot slaw
Add freshness and vibrancy to rich winter meals with this delicious side dish, perfect with slow-cooked meats and roasts.
Ready in 15 minutes
Serves 6
2 beets, peeled and coarsely grated
Half an orange peel (grated)
1/2 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced
1/4 red cabbage (very thinly sliced)
¼ cup finely chopped mint leaves
¼ cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1 teaspoon honey
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
2 tablespoons boutique extra virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon salt
Black pepper (optional)
Place the red cabbage in a large bowl and knead between your fingers to break down the fibers and soften. Add the beets, orange zest, and red onion. Stir or shake the orange juice, oil, salt and pepper in a jar to dissolve the honey. Pour the dressing over the slaw and mix to combine. This salad can be prepared in advance and refrigerated for up to 8 hours when needed.
Horseradish Slaw
This slaw is also delicious with red cabbage and red or yellow bell peppers for added color. If you prefer a creamier dressing, use 1/2 cup mayonnaise instead of oil.
Ready in 20 minutes
Serves 6-8
4 daikon radishes (thinly sliced)
2 stalks of celery, thinly sliced
2 spring onions, finely chopped
1/2 bell pepper, finely chopped (optional)
1/4 of a large, firm cabbage, sliced as thinly as possible
¼ cup finely chopped parsley leaves
1 tablespoon poppy or nigella seeds
Horseradish Dressing
1 shallot or scallion, finely chopped
1-2 tablespoons bottled horseradish or 1 tablespoon freshly grated horseradish
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and black pepper (to taste)
To make the horseradish dressing, combine all ingredients in a jar and mix well. Store in the fridge for up to a week.
To make the coleslaw, place the cabbage in a large bowl and knead with your fingers to loosen the fibers and soften it. Add the remaining ingredients and mix together. If not serving immediately, cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. Just before serving, drizzle with the horseradish dressing and mix.
Kohlrabi or celeriac slaw
Instead of cabbage, use 2 peeled and grated kohlrabi or celery roots.
Yvonne Rokin
(Raw broccoli slaw with spicy Asian dressing)
Zephyr MkIII Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($32)
I was lucky enough to taste the 1942 bottle of wine from the Glover family’s “Kearsley Estate” vineyard, which is in the midst of converting to certified organic status, and winemaker Ben Glover has taken this Sauvignon to the city’s wild side. With complex aromas and textures of charred jalapeño, smoked lemongrass, soft lime and green apple, this tangy, lusciously textured wine pairs perfectly with raw produce, like this coleslaw. Drizzle with a spicy Asian dressing and your taste buds will be delighted. Brilliant! Zephyrwine.com
(Red cabbage and beetroot coleslaw)
Selection Masser Organic Central Otago Pinot Noir 2023 ($25)
Certified organic and boasting vibrant red fruit flavors of raspberry, strawberry, red currant and cherry, this juicy Pinot is one of our favorite new discoveries. It’s a little hazy in the glass, reflecting that it’s not fined or filtered, and the finish gives way to a pleasant, flavorful, gently spiced style. Serve in a fine goblet with a generous serving of this tangy beet and red cabbage slaw and you’ll be sure to get cheers around the table. Everydaywine.com
(Horseradish slaw)
Reverby Estate Salis Block Single Vineyard Marlborough Riesling 2023 ($22)
I’ve been a big fan of Salis Block since the 2014 vintage. Why? Because each year it does its own delicious dance in terms of aroma, flavor and texture. Packed with character, it’s got rich, bouncy apple, loads of mandarin and plenty of lime, but also a refreshing, well-balanced sweetness that makes it super drinkable. It pairs perfectly with anything spicy or peppery, so it’s a great pairing with horseradish. Its flavor profile is nearly a half marathon long, and its crisp, silky texture wraps around you like a silver blanket handed out at the finish line. Riverbyestate.com
