In my hometown of Roanoke, Virginia’s mountains, the centerpiece of any midsummer dinner party is a hearty bowl of chilled cheese slaw, a delightfully funky relative of pimiento cheese, and there’s a reason it’s a sure-fire party favorite.
Swiss cheese, with its mild, nutty flavor, is full of flavor. Imagine a creamy, tangy coleslaw without the cabbage and with lots of cheese instead. I remember having cheese coleslaw with corn chips and freshly ground black pepper. Top with olives and chopped green onions and serve with yeast rolls, vegetables, or your favorite crackers.
Living in New York for the first time and feeling very far from my Virginia hometown, I found solace in author Grace Paley’s charming tales of boisterous dinner parties. “The youthful lads ate all the cheese,” she writes, instantly transporting me back to the steamy summer dinner parties of my childhood, where I undoubtedly ate more than my share of cheese slaw. I remember feeling a bit homesick and unconsciously hosting cheese slaw whenever I could. After all, banana peppers were more readily available than pimientos in Brooklyn, and they were always a big hit.
Until recently, I thought cheese slaw was common across the South, like pimiento cheese and corn dip. But I was surprised to learn that it’s unique to Virginia’s Roanoke Valley, where many grocery stores, like Crystal Springs Grocery, sell pre-made cheese slaw, and local restaurants, like Fork in the Market, offer it as a topping on burgers, hot dogs, and salads.
The dish originated with caterer Liv Wilhelm, whose recipe appeared in the Roanoke Junior League cookbook, Oh My Stars! Recipes That Shine, published in 2000. The rest is history, and the dish remains a favorite at local parties and events to this day. Now that I live in Birmingham, Alabama, I’m surprised to find that cheese slaw is just as much of a novelty here as it was when I lived in New York. I serve it with pride wherever I am, and I’m a lot more disciplined when it comes to eating cheese.
What are the origins of cheese slaw?
This recipe originates from Roanoke, Virginia, where Liv Wilhelm’s famous cheese slaw was featured in the local Junior League cookbook, “Oh My Stars! Recipes That Shine.” Wilhelm’s daughter-in-law, Loano Car According to the magazine, Liv loved Duke’s mayonnaise, but when it came to making his own, he chose Miracle Whip. Many in Roanoke will remember Liv serving up coleslaw on a hollowed-out cabbage bowl with corn chips, which we’d love to try.
Ingredients for Cheese Slaw
Like pimiento cheese, the essential ingredients of cheese slaw are shredded cheese and mayonnaise (sound familiar?), but authentic cheese slaw uses banana peppers in place of chopped pimentos for a unique tangy crunch.
- Swiss Cheese: We recommend a mild, firm cheese like Swiss, as it delicately balances the strong flavors of the pickled peppers, jalapeños, and fresh green onions. Similar cheeses like Monterey Jack or Pepper Jack are also good choices.
- mayonnaise: I recommend Duke’s as a classic flavored mayonnaise to complement the flavor of this recipe, but any mayonnaise will do.
- Banana Pepper: Banana peppers are a key ingredient, and they’re more tangy than spicy. Banana peppers are notoriously hot and sour, but the generous dollop of mayonnaise and mild cheese bring out their subtle juicy sweetness.
- Spring onion: Finely chopped yellow or white onions can be used instead, but we recommend scallions for their tangy onion flavor and vibrant green color.
- jalapeno pepper: Fresh jalapeno peppers are chopped, not sliced, so they blend perfectly into the creamy mixture and add an extra dash of heat.
Caitlin Bensel, Food Stylist: Tory Cox
Editorial Support Katherine Jessie.
