When it comes to anti-aging skincare, retinol has long been known as one of the best ingredients. However, anyone who has tried retinol knows all too well that it can leave skin extremely dry and sometimes flaky or irritated during the adjustment period. Some people can handle this powerful ingredient just fine, but for those with sensitive skin or certain skin conditions, retinol may not be a godsend. That’s where bactiol comes in. Known as nature’s retinol, this plant-derived anti-aging ingredient is a godsend for those who can’t tolerate retinol.
But many questions still remain about bakuchiol, retinol, and the actual difference between these two anti-aging ingredients. So we asked dermatologists Elyse Love, MD, and Dendy Engelman, MD, about everything you need to know about retinol and bakuchiol: what they are, how they differ, side effects, and ultimately, how to choose which one is best for your skin. Get all the answers below.
What is Retinol?
Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A. “It’s used in skin care to stimulate collagen production, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve pigmentation,” says Dr. Love.
Additionally, Dr. Engelman explains that retinol acts as an anti-aging ingredient because it is a cell messenger that can bind to nearly every skin cell receptor site and tell them to behave like healthy, youthful skin cells. In addition to being an anti-aging ingredient, Dr. Engelman says that retinol is also a powerful antioxidant, meaning it can inhibit the damaging free radical processes that cause wrinkles and other signs of aging.
Retinol is available over the counter and by prescription (the former can take up to six months to show results, while the latter can work in just a few weeks, says Dr. Engelman), but your dermatologist can help you decide which is best for your skin type, concerns, and goals.
What is Bakuchiol?
“Bakuchiol is a natural alternative to retinol found in certain plants that have been shown to have similar skin-improving effects to retinol,” says Dr. Love. Psoralea corylifoliaBakuchiol is extracted from the seeds.
“Bactiol has a history of medical use as a remedy to soothe rashes, calm redness, and heal cuts,” adds Dr. Engelman. “In skin care, it has been shown to work similarly to retinol, activating and stimulating collagen, and it also acts as an anti-inflammatory and antioxidant.” If you use a bactiol product, Dr. Love says you can expect to see results in about six weeks of using the ingredient twice daily.
Retinol Side Effects
People who use retinol usually go through an adjustment period as their skin gets used to the strength of the ingredient. “Using retinol too quickly or too strongly can cause skin irritation, including redness, peeling, burning, odor, and dryness,” says Dr. Love. “For this reason, only apply a thin layer of retinol at first,” says Dr. Love, “three times a week.”
After consistent, regular use, she says, you can gradually increase the frequency of your retinol product use, eventually working your way up to nightly use. “Once you can tolerate nightly use, you can increase the concentration of retinol as you tolerate and desire,” she says. “A thin layer should always be enough.”
Dr. Engelman adds that retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so be sure to use sunscreen daily and reapply every two hours to prevent irritation.
Side effects of bactiol
Bactiol is well-tolerated by almost everyone and rarely causes irritation, says Love, but Engelman says those with extremely sensitive skin may experience side effects similar to those of retinol.
How to use retinol
First, make sure to thoroughly cleanse and dry your skin before applying it, and only use retinol at night, says Dr. Love. (Remember when we said it can cause sun sensitivity? That’s why nighttime use is recommended.)
Dr. Love recommends starting out by using a pea-sized amount of product two to three times a week. Over time, as your skin becomes more tolerant to retinol, you can increase your usage. “Most people can only use retinol three to five times a week, and that’s fine,” adds Dr. Love.
For an over-the-counter option, ROC’s Retinol Correction Serum Capsules keep the ingredients as fresh and potent as possible thanks to their biodegradable capsules, making them perfect for stain-free travel. Another option is Shani Darden Retinol Reform, which has lactic acid and apple extract as its main ingredients to instantly smooth skin.
Be sure to apply a moisturizer after applying retinol, but be careful of irritating ingredients: Benzoyl peroxide and AHA and BHA acids are exfoliants, which can irritate the skin, says Dr. Engelman.
How to use bakuchiol
While bactiol is much gentler than retinol, Dr. Engelman still recommends doing a patch test on your skin to see how it reacts before applying it all over your face. If it works, you can start using it twice a day to begin with, says Dr. Love. “If you’re okay with using retinol less frequently than every night, you could also use it every morning or on nights when you don’t use retinol,” says Dr. Love. “If you use retinol every night, you can use it in the morning to supplement the effects of the retinol.”
Dr. Love recommends Avene RetrinAl Advanced Correcting Serum, which combines bactiol with niacinamide and hyaluronic acid to instantly hydrate and gradually improve the appearance of fine lines, pigmentation, and barrier function.
Retinol vs. Bakuchiol: How to Choose
Both bactiol and retinol are anti-aging ingredients, so they can both be beneficial for mature or aging skin, says Engelman, but other factors also come into play, like whether you have sensitive skin or are prone to acne.
Dr. Love says retinol is one of the most studied ingredients in skin care, so she recommends it for those who tolerate it. Dr. Engelman says to pay attention to your skin and your reaction to retinol. If it makes your skin flaky, sensitive, or red, you might be using too much or too often. If that’s the case, you can choose a product with less retinol, use it less often, or opt for bactiol instead.
If you have very sensitive skin or are prone to irritation, you should play it safe by opting for bactiol from the start. “Bactiol’s antibacterial properties make it great for people with acne or oily skin, and its anti-inflammatory properties make it great for people with sensitive skin,” adds Dr. Engelman. Plus, Dr. Love says it’s great for people with rosacea, perioral dermatitis, and eczema, which don’t respond to retinol.
