“The sourness of the Druze version of warak inab (rice stuffed with grape leaves) comes not from bitter lemon but from tomatoes, which are also sweet,” Hikam Alideh said, as he grated tomatoes onto the rice stuffed with grape leaves.
Hikam Alideh was born over 50 years ago in the Druze town of Daliyat al-Karmell in northern Israel to a family of nine sisters and three brothers. Alideh’s life was full of twists and turns: she dropped out of school at 14 and, at a relatively young age, married a man from another village and moved into his family’s home, as is customary in Druze society.
Within six years, Alide had given birth to four children in a time when Druze women rarely received an education, much less worked, much less became financially independent.
“The relationship didn’t work out,” Allied sadly recalls, “and I had to move out and start a legal battle to get my kids back, probably a first in our industry.”
At 27, Alido returned home with her four children, also as usual, with no education, no job and no bank account. “We didn’t even have clothes for the kids,” she said.
“This is a special version of communal kubbeh. Instead of shaping it and distributing it, everyone comes together, shapes it however they like and takes their share,” Areed explained as he kneaded a mixture of boiled potatoes, bulgur, sautéed onions and dried red peppers.
Over time, her parents’ house became too small for the family and the noise and commotion began to bother them, so instead of living with them, Aride rented an apartment nearby, again going against Druze tradition.
“One day a neighbour approached me and suggested I go and ask for rent assistance, but I had no idea what she was talking about or who it was from.” The friend took Allied to the National Insurance Institute, where she learned that as a divorced, unemployed woman and single mother, she was entitled to certain assistance from the state that would cover some of the costs.
This was a turning point for her, especially in understanding the power of economic independence and empowerment.
Alyde then started working within the family and eventually became financially independent, completed her studies, enrolled in law courses and helped students exercise their rights. “I even have an academic paper. [written] “About me,” she said proudly.
The full story of Aride’s struggle and hard work is thrilling and inspiring, and she invites everyone to hear the full story first-hand as part of her cooking workshops.
“I’ve been cooking this little surprise for everyone since 6am! The secret to keeping it tender and flavourful is to cook it slowly,” Alide said as she piled her irresistible mansaf lamb dish onto a pile of rice and chicken, topped with a sprinkling of nuts.
Little by little, Alide became a celebrity and authority among other divorced and single mother Druze women who had overcome similar crises and were now living independently.
But for her, that wasn’t enough. Soon she founded a parent patrol aimed at helping young people in her village, and a few years ago joined the search and rescue team. “I’m sorry I keep getting calls,” she apologizes as her phone rings. “You never know if someone from the search and rescue team is asking for help.”
Aride’s unconventional path is also evident in her home. Unusually for a Druze, she was given land by her family and personally oversaw the construction of her house. “I know every nail and grain of sand in this house,” she says with a smile.
For the past 15 years, Alide has been hosting cooking classes in the home she built with her own hands, teaching participants the secrets of great Druze cuisine, especially kosher versions. She is proud that, even though she had to start from scratch and didn’t have enough clothes for her children, she can now host groups in the home she built.
“Thanks to the cooking workshops, I am now able to open my home and invite people to experience Druze cuisine,” she says proudly.
What is the secret of Druze cuisine to you?
“The secret of Druze cuisine lies in its spices,” Alide explains. “Our dishes boast a variety of flavours that come from a blend of these spices. When asked to provide a recipe, I find it difficult to measure the exact amounts of spices. I simply use the traditional method of ‘measuring by eye,'” she says, smiling again.
In addition to the countless other activities she was already involved in, Alide volunteered in several activities during the war preparing meals for IDF soldiers in the north, helping them experience the wonders of Druze cuisine.
What have you learned from your life experiences that you would like to share with our readers?
“Life is too vast, so don’t fixate on one thing and think it will never come back. Always remember that you are not limited to just one chance, one future. It’s all in your hands,” Allied concluded.
Hikam Aride can be contacted via his Instagram page: www.instagram.com/hikamaride/
To book a cooking class, please contact us at 050-232-2258.
Create your own Druze dish
Enjoy some of Hikam Alideh’s traditional recipes: “Druze cuisine is characterized by an abundance of ingredients and there are no exact portions,” she says. “These dishes are enough to feed around 15 to 20 people.”
Warak Inab (grape leaves stuffed with rice)
1/2 kg grape leaves
Whole rice 1.5kg
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder or 1 tablespoon chicken broth powder
Baharat spice mix
1/2 cup olive oil
2-3 large tomatoes
2-3 large onions
1. Soak the rice for at least an hour.
2. Soak the grape leaves in boiling water for a few minutes and then dry them thoroughly (handle them gently to avoid tearing them).
3. Wash the rice and mix it with the spices and oil.
4. Grate the tomatoes and add them to the rice mixture, then place the remaining peels in the bottom of the pot along with the onion slices.
5. Place a small amount of rice mixture in the center of the grape leaf on the rough side.
6. Hold both ends of the leaf, close it and then roll it from bottom to top.
7. Place the rolled grape leaves on top of the tomato and onion slices in the pan, arranging them in a spiral pattern in layers.
8. Place a heat-resistant plate over the leaves to hold them in place while they cook.
9. Add water up to 1cm above the leaves.
10. Bring to a boil over high heat and then simmer over medium heat for 30 to 40 minutes.
11 Serve while hot.
Kubbeh (vegan version)
1/2 kg high quality red bulgur
Pepper paste*
Kubbeh Spice Mix: Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Cumin
5-6 medium sized potatoes
2 onions, thinly sliced
Olive oil
1. Boil potatoes in water until soft.
2. Sauté the onions until soft.
3. Mash the boiled potatoes. Add the bulgur, pepper paste, spice mix, fried onion and olive oil.
4. Mix and knead until smooth and soft. Shape into desired shape and enjoy.
* To make the pepper paste, grind red and ripe peppers in a food processor, strain the liquid and add the nutmeg and dried mint leaves.
Mansaf (Kosher version)
For meat:
4kg lamb shoulder
mustard
Black pepper
garlic powder
Kosher salt
For rice:
1/2 kg basmati rice
Baharat spice mix
Pine nut
almond
Chicken bone soup
1. Season the lamb with ground black pepper, mustard, kosher salt and garlic and wrap in baking paper and aluminum foil.
2. Place the wrapped lamb in an oven-safe pot, add water (for steaming) and cook in a preheated oven at 180 degrees for 4 hours.
3. Wash the rice thoroughly.
4. Fry the pine nuts and almonds in olive oil for a few minutes, then strain the mixture into a saucepan.
5. Stir fry the washed rice with the pine nuts and almond oil for 3-4 minutes, add the chicken stock, cover the pot and simmer until the rice is well cooked.
6. Place rice on a large tray and place the lamb shoulder on top of the rice, adding more pine nuts and almonds as garnish.
