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It’s no exaggeration to say that vitamin C is the Swiss Army knife of skin care. This ingredient has many immediate and long-term benefits. It does everything from brighten your skin to turn back the clock and has powerful anti-aging effects.
“Vitamin C has three main benefits,” says Ron Robinson, cosmetic chemist and founder of BeautyStat. “As a powerful antioxidant, it can protect your skin from free radical damage. It stimulates collagen, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, and tightens the skin. It inhibits overproduction of melanin, improving skin tone. It helps even out and fade pigmentation.”
Read everything you need to know about the triple threat.
featured experts
- Ron Robinson is a cosmetic chemist and founder of BeautyStat.
- Marisa Gershick is a board-certified dermatologist in New York State.
- Kelly Dobos is a cosmetic chemist
- Shani Darden is a famous esthetician
- Kate Oldham is the Senior Vice President of Beauty at Saks Fifth Avenue.
What are the benefits of vitamin C in skin care?
Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps protect your skin from free radical damage, explains Marisa Gershick, a board-certified dermatologist in New York. “It also brightens the skin, improves discoloration to even out skin tone, and supports collagen production to help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” she says. “Vitamin C helps protect against free radical damage that can occur as a result of UV exposure, making it a great addition to your morning routine when combined with sunscreen to provide ultimate protection.”
Where should you use vitamin C in your skin care routine?
Generally, it is best to apply vitamin C once a day in the morning to clean skin. Robinson advises applying moisturizer and sunscreen during the day. He can also be used for cleansing skin at night.
However, it also depends on the type of skin care product. “If you use a serum, it’s best to use it after cleansing and before moisturizing or sunscreen,” says Dr. Garshick. “For maximum protection against UV damage, vitamin C is best used in conjunction with sunscreen.”
What ingredients can and cannot be used with vitamin C?
“If you have sensitive skin, it’s best not to combine vitamin C with other acids or retinoids,” says Robinson. “However, vitamin C pairs very well with other moisturizing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and squalane.”
In fact, according to Dr. Gershick, combining vitamin C with other antioxidants such as vitamin E and ferulic acid can further enhance the benefits of vitamin C, increasing both its stability and effectiveness. “Vitamin C tends to be unstable, so certain ingredients like retinoids and exfoliating acids can make it less effective and can break down vitamin C or cause inflammation,” she says. say. “Unless the product is specifically formulated with other ingredients, it is generally best not to mix vitamin C with other ingredients due to the risk of reduced efficacy and stability.”
What should I pay attention to when purchasing vitamin C products?
There are several factors to keep in mind. “It is important to consider the type of product, whether it is a serum, essence, moisturizer, etc., the type of vitamin C, its concentration, and whether it is combined with other ingredients to ensure stability and effectiveness. ,” says Dr. Garshick.
For maximum results, Robinson recommends looking for a vitamin C serum that contains 10 to 20 percent pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid). If you have sensitive skin, you can start with a low concentration to avoid irritation and increase the concentration as needed.
People with sensitive skin may want to look for other forms of vitamin C, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, which is water-soluble and less irritating. “pH is also important when choosing vitamin C for people with sensitive skin, as people with sensitive skin may prefer vitamin C with a pH closer to their skin’s natural pH,” says Dr. Gershick. . “Vitamin C products are often formulated to have a low pH to increase stability, but a low pH can be irritating so this may be something to consider if you have sensitive skin. It might be important.”
Additionally, some vitamin C formulations contain moisturizing ingredients, making them an option for those with dry or sensitive skin, or incorporate other ingredients to help combat oiliness. . “Typically, vitamin C products often contain other antioxidants, soothing ingredients like niacinamide, and moisturizing ingredients like hyaluronic acid to help stabilize results and enhance effectiveness,” says Garsick. says the doctor.
Cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos explains: “Vitamin C is highly soluble in water, and many cosmetic creams and lotions contain water-based vitamin C, but in this type of formulation, vitamin C is resistant to exposure to heat, light, and oxygen. Trace metal sources such as copper and iron are also known to be harmful.Although less effective, vitamin C derivatives such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl palmitate are highly stable. ” she points out.
Opaque containers and airless pump packaging are perfect for protecting ingredients. Dobos added that advanced carrier systems such as liposomes can also be used to provide sustained release of vitamin C over long periods of time. If you’re looking for a dynamic combo that combines vitamin C with vitamins A and E, she says it’s proven to increase the effectiveness of its ingredients.
How do I know if a product contains vitamin C?
Check the label! However, there are several types of vitamin C, so look for L-ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate phosphate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, magnesium ascorbate phosphate, and ethyl ascorbate.
“Most manufacturers disclose the type of vitamin C they use,” Robinson says. “It can be vitamin C in its pure form (L-ascorbic acid) or vitamin C derivatives such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate or ascorbic acid THD.”
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