Globally, the anti-inflammatory skin care ingredients market is expected to witness a CAGR of 7.0% from 2024 to 2031, according to a Report Prime project.1 In this context, Spherical Insights stated in June 2023 that the global sensitive skin care market was valued at USD 44.75 billion in 2022 and will grow to USD 90.53 billion from 2023 to 2032, at a CAGR of 7.3%. reported that it is expected to reach2
Combine them and you have what Doyle describes as a “gentle skin care revolution.”3 “‘Sensitive skin will become the new normal,’ Doyle wrote,” according to WGSN. [gentler] It will create an approach to skin care where products work with the skin rather than against it. ”
Recent studies published in patent literature related to cosmetic product development have revealed similar themes. For example, Procter & Gamble describes its low pH skin care compositions as offering “superior sensory properties and superior properties.” [with] Low skin irritation. ”Four
According to the patent, conventional skin care is typically formulated at a neutral pH for a variety of reasons, but certain skin care ingredients, such as vitamin B3 compounds and sugars, remain in low pH skin care formulations. It was found that it may be more effective at low pH. Products can pose challenges in terms of sensory properties and potential irritating effects.
However, according to the inventors, “low pH skin care compositions comprising niacinamide, a polymeric thickener, a low molecular weight silicone oil, and a sodium lactate/lactic acid pH buffer system can provide an effective skin care product. It is not irritating to the skin and has better sensory properties.
Beiersdorf reviews new isobutyramide derivatives and their use for the treatment and prevention of sensitive, inflamed, or inflammatory skin conditions.Five Yves Rocher studies meristem extracts6 from Otanthus maritimus, or cotton weed, gives anti-aging, soothing and anti-inflammatory effects. The inventors reportedly obtained results regarding cell regeneration of the epidermis. Barrier function, especially keratinocyte differentiation. Inhibition of pro-inflammatory mediators.6
Additionally, Galderma said:7 A personal care composition for reducing signs of aging in sensitive skin, comprising niacinamide; leontopodium alpinum Extract, Rice Contains lees extract, panthenol, and soybean-derived glycopeptide. These are reported to “modulate biochemical indicators associated with premature skin aging in response to pollution.”
More specifically, this composition significantly (66%) reduced the number of mitochondria-associated endoplasmic reticulum membranes (MAM) in cells damaged by pollution. According to the patent, MAM is the site where inflammasomes are formed, and urban pollution increases MAM in the presence of damaged mitochondria, contributing to aging through “inflammation.”7
Considering these market and research trends, C&T Additionally, we sought insights from industry experts on the current and future direction of this market. Below are the experts’ answers.
Immediate and pleasant effects
Mariana Yamamoto, Global Skin Care Products and Marketing Manager at Chemyunion, Ltda., writes: In fact, it was introduced in his 2000s. Today, modern cosmetics consumers have easy access to information and scientific knowledge and understand the influence of both internal and external factors on skin health. ”
Yamamoto added that the spread of knowledge may be due to the fact that many people experience skin sensitivity. “Research shows that 71% of the world’s general population self-reports having sensitive skin to some extent.” The association between sensitive skin and aging solidifies “inflammation” as a widely recognized phenomenon. Therefore, there is a need for cosmetics that respond to these consumer concerns. ”
As for future directions, Yamamoto believes that today’s consumers are increasingly demanding quick results, and the popularity of resurfacing ingredients such as retinoids and AHAs, which provide fast-acting effects on the skin, is growing. . “For consumers who suffer from chronic inflammation, products that are too harsh on the skin can make the situation worse. Therefore, the market is growing in products that reduce irritation, soothe the skin, and prevent aging without causing negative effects. We are expanding to accommodate products that deliver benefits.”
According to Yamamoto, two examples of solutions that address this new dynamic include the Physavie 250 (INCI: Physalis Extract (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) and Levinage (INCI: Biden’s Pilosa Extract (and) Elais guinensis (palm) oil (and) Gossypium herbaceum (cotton) seed oil (and) Ama (Flax) (linseed) seed oil.
“Fisavi 250, a natural extract, soothes the skin as effectively as hydrocortisone and protects collagen from external stressors,” explains Yamamoto. “Revinage provides anti-aging benefits by acting as a natural retinol replacement and offering similar efficacy and benefits without irritating the skin or causing negative effects.”
longevity and anti-aging
Christophe Paillet, Head of Cosmetic Ingredients at Exsymol, said: anti-aging Although widely advertised, it is rare for a brand to make such a public claim. cause inflammation. He added: “This approach is still considered through his two different axes: inflammation and aging.
“Nonetheless, brands are now starting to envision inflammation as a whole, with mild but cumulative inflammation being characterized as contributing to premature aging.” , points out that it is limited to those with anti-inflammatory properties or those with traditional anti-aging properties (such as anti-free radicals and antioxidants).
He continues: “Environmental issues are [also] There has been increased awareness of the effects of exposomes among the general public. [Thus], exciting features are currently one of the most promising approaches to meeting consumer expectations. ”
Looking to the future, Payet emphasizes that the hallmarks of inflammation are perhaps the most potent and insidious at the cellular level, providing an important target. He refers to the concept of aging, noting that it sometimes brings negative perceptions (i.e., associated with aging), but adds:[this] As soon as cellular aging is mentioned, negative thoughts disappear. ”
Furthermore, he said: “A smart way to convey this message to consumers is to evoke the more general concept of ‘longevity’ that naturally arises from anti-aging activities. [The] The largest multinational companies actually recognize research programs in this field. ”
According to Paillet, to address some of these future directions, Exsymol has chosen a unique approach that embraces longevity and anti-aging. He gives an example of the composition of Scutarine (INCI: Scutellariae Extract).
“Thanks to our patented extraction process, the extract is standardized with baicalein and wogonin. Scutaline focuses on inflammation and cellular aging, providing new answers through an anti-SASP approach (inhibition of the NFκB pathway) And the anti-aging effect is considered due to the reactivation of natural senolysis (i.e. the natural removal of senescent cells by cells of the immune system).
conclusion
The recent emphasis on reducing the potential for inflammation, sensitivity, and irritation reflects the industry’s emphasis on skin health for overall beauty.
References
1.Isuu. (April 5, 2024). Global anti-inflammatory skin care ingredients market CAGR 7%. Report Prime. Available at https://issuu.com/reportprime-2/docs/anti-inflammatory-skincare-ingredients-market-size.
2. Spherical Insight. (June 2023). Global sensitive skin care products market size, share, impact analysis of the new coronavirus infection, by product type (face care, body care, lip care), gender (men and women), distribution channel (supermarkets and hypermarkets) , specialty stores, pharmacies) and drugstores, online, etc.), regional (North America, Europe, Asia Pacific, Latin America, Middle East, Africa), analysis and forecasts from 2022 to 2032.. Available at https://www.sphericalinsights.com/reports/sensitive-skin-care-products-market
3. Doyle, L. (2024, April 1). Gentle skin care revolution. global cosmetics industry. Available at https://www.gcimagazine.com/brands-products/skin-care/article/22888389/the-gentle-skin-care-revolution
4. Zhang, L., Chakravarty, S., Zukowski, J. M. (February 27, 2024). Low pH skin care compositions and methods of use thereof (US Patent No. 11911498). Free patents online. Available at https://www.freepatentsonline.com/11911498.html
5. Kolbe, L., Reuter, J.H., Kamal, A., and Seidel, J. (October 5, 2023). New isobutyramide derivatives, cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations containing said compounds and their use for the prevention and treatment of sensitive skin, in particular irritated skin or inflammatory skin conditions. (U.S. Patent Application No. 20230312495). Free patents online. Available at https://www.freepatentsonline.com/y2023/0312495.html
6. C. Lubrano (January 11, 2024). Meristem cell extract Otanthus maritimus and its uses, especially in cosmetics (WO2024009041A1; French). Google patent. Available at https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2024009041A1
7. Gribe-Saib, M., Knapic-Ceccon, RV, Joly-Tonetti, N., Le Noel, V., Pascal-Swiss, STB, Lachman, NM, Cho, HD, Seo, J.Y. October 5, 2023). Personal care compositions for sensitive skin and how to use them (WO2023192538A1). Google patent. Available at https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023192538A1
