However, their exact benefits are highly dependent on the peptide in question. “Signal peptides promote collagen and elastin production, and carrier peptides help important components reach target sites, increasing collagen production,” says Dr. Castilla. On the other hand, enzyme-inhibiting peptides inhibit enzymes that break down collagen, which can cause sagging and wrinkled skin.
One type of peptide that is becoming increasingly popular is neuropeptides, or “neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides,” Dr. Castilla says. This peptide can “block the release of neurotransmitters that relay muscle signals.” In other words, it acts similarly to neuromodulators, albeit on a much smaller scale, relaxing facial muscles and minimizing expression lines.
What to look for in a peptide serum
Dr. Graf recommends using a formula that “combines the benefits of peptides with other skin-healthy ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and glycerin.” These protect the skin barrier and make the skin plump and smooth.
It is also helpful to consider peptides in serum. Currently, signal and carrier peptides have the most evidence supporting their anti-aging effects, with copper peptides being one of the most common and best-studied signal peptides, Castilla said. says.
Finally, let’s think about skin concerns. For example, “If you’re looking for plumper, smoother skin, choose formulations with signaling peptides, such as hyaluronic acid, that also provide hydration,” she says.
Who is Peptide Serum suitable for?
Dr. Castile says if you’re already using antioxidant serums, retinoids, and sunscreen, it’s a good idea to add a peptide serum to enhance your anti-aging routine. “In general, peptides serve an additive role rather than being components that provide an overall benefit,” she says.
It can also be expected to have a preventive effect. “The longer you use peptides, the more benefits you’ll see for your skin,” says Dr. Graf. “Stimulating important proteins such as collagen leaves skin firmer and brighter, slowing the signs of aging such as fine lines and wrinkles.”
Finally, peptide serums are also a good option for people who cannot tolerate irritating ingredients such as retinoids. This is because it similarly stimulates collagen production, albeit to a lesser extent. However, there is no risk of irritation, making it a good option for sensitive people.
meet an expert
- Dr. Carmen Castile is a board-certified dermatologist with New York State Dermatology Group.
- Dr. Melanie Palm is a board-certified dermatologist at Art of Skin in San Diego, California.
- Janet Graf, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and professor at Mount Sinai School of Medicine.
