Two classic French recipes that will make you dream of Paris

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When I received the invitation to spend three weeks in Paris with my friend Jackie, I was on the phone with my travel agent and had my flight booked before my coffee was cold.

In September 2023, Jackie settled into a one-bedroom apartment in Paris’ 6th arrondissement, in the trendy Sphere area near the Saint-Sulpice church (where The Da Vinci Rule was filmed). I wanted to visit one of my favorite cities during the off-season and knew there was no one better to show me around the city than Jackie.

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Nothing compares to a Parisian cafe. Sit as long as you like and look out over the square or onto the busy boulevards while sipping on a glass of kir (a combination of two simple ingredients: a dry white wine made from the Aligoté grape and crème de cassis). You can spend it.

One of my favorite meals was at the Musée d’Orsay, located in the heart of a former train station with chandeliers hanging from the frescoed ceiling. The restaurant is accessible with your museum admission ticket. Reservations are not accepted. Waiters are paid and do not rely on tips, so tips are minimal.

I had visited Versailles in the 1970s, but only to visit the summer residence where Napoleon lived from 1810 to 1814. This time, I took a train from Gare Montparnasse in Paris to Chantiers, where Jackie and I were met. Her friend Stéphanie took us to the public market of Versailles.

It’s hard to describe the excitement I felt as I walked through a lively market lined with stalls selling flowers, cheese, fruit, and vegetables so fresh there was dirt still clinging to the carrots.

And there was also a crepe shop. Savory crepes are called galettes, and sweet ones are called crepes. I have never experienced such perfection as I experienced at the Versailles market.

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When I returned to Vancouver, I was craving French flavors. Thanks for these two recipes:

Le Crocodile’s Traditional Alsatian Onion Tart

1 x 9 inch deep dish pastry shell

3 medium onions, sliced

1 tablespoon butter (15mL)

1 tablespoon oil (15mL)

2 pieces bacon (cut into 1-inch pieces)

1 cup (250mL) of rich béchamel sauce (recipe below)

Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper.

ground nutmeg to taste

1/2 cup (125mL) whipped cream

1/3 cup (80 mL) dry white wine

4 eggs

Fry the onions in the butter and oil in a frying pan over low heat for 20 minutes, stirring frequently, until soft but not brown. While the onions are sautéing, bring 2 cups of water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add bacon and cook for 2 minutes. Immediately drain and set aside. Remove the onions from the heat and add the béchamel sauce, salt, pepper, nutmeg, whipped cream, and white wine. Stir until smooth. Beat in eggs one at a time. Add bacon and stir. Pour the mixture into the pastry shell and bake at 400°F for about 25-30 minutes or until the pie is golden brown.

rich béchamel sauce

3 tablespoons butter (45mL)

3 tablespoons flour (45mL)

1 cup (250mL) milk

Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper.

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Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Remove from heat and stir in flour. Return to heat and cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring constantly. Gradually add the milk from the heat, stirring constantly until the sauce is smooth. Cook over low heat for 3 minutes until thickened. Season with salt and pepper. Makes 1 cup.

kill

The drink Kiel takes its name from Félix Kiel, the mayor of Dijon in France in the early 20th century, who served the cocktail to foreign tourists and is said to have taken the recipe home with him. However, it is also said that this drink was created because red wine from Burgundy was confiscated during World War II. Whichever story is true, I’m grateful.

4 1/2 oz (130 mL) Aligoté (or other dry white wine)

Crème de Cassis 22 mL (3/4 oz)

In a wine glass, add the chilled Aligoté and the crème de cassis. Swirl to mix.

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