A study published in the journal Cosmetics found that the hydroxy derivative of vitamin D acts as an antioxidant, helping protect skin from UV exposure and some of the effects of aging. The authors analyzed previous reports on vitamin D derivatives and skin protection.
Effects on different types of skin cells
Newer vitamin D derivatives are also involved in DNA repair and exhibit functions such as reducing oxidative stress and improving wound healing processes.
Vitamin D metabolites have previously been used to treat skin diseases such as psoriasis by inhibiting keratinocyte proliferation and alopecia by acting as a hair growth stimulant.
Vitamin D derivatives act on several different skin cells to produce these benefits. In keratinocytes, it has anti-inflammatory properties, inhibits DNA damage and helps stimulate DNA repair after UV exposure. “They also reduce levels of H2O2 and NO and increase levels of detoxifying enzymes such as GSH, thus enhancing DNA repair, similar to melatonin,” the authors write.
In melanocytes, the derivatives help inhibit apoptosis and act as antioxidants.
For fibroblasts, it promotes wound healing and regeneration. Vitamin D derivatives have a beneficial effect on collagen production by repairing and replacing collagen and reducing collagenase. Additionally, the authors write that vitamin D3 partially regulates an anti-aging gene called alpha-Klotho.
In addition, vitamin D derivatives aid wound healing and help prevent hypertrophic scarring and systemic sclerosis. It can also modulate pro-inflammatory cytokines by increasing the levels of anti-inflammatory cytokines.
analysis
Analysis showed that smoking and sun exposure are the most common causes of skin aging. Vitamin D and its derivatives have demonstrated functionality as sunscreens in the literature. “Vitamin D metabolites have been reported to protect skin keratinocytes from UV-induced damage by modulating DNA damage or repair processes,” the authors write.
Sunscreens containing antioxidants, such as vitamin D derivatives, inhibit ROS production and reduce photoaging. This derivative provides protection against both UVA and UVB rays. The novel vitamin D hydroxy derivatives have the potential to be an alternative to existing sunscreens as their combined effects reduce the effects of UVB.
This derivative protects the skin from aging by counteracting oxidative stress. The authors write that many skin aging products have what is called NRF2 activity, and that vitamin D derivatives target NRF2, suggesting a possible mechanism to strengthen the skin’s barrier function.
In cosmetics, vitamin D is applied topically, eliminating the risks of oral vitamin D intake and also providing the benefits of hydrating the skin.
Although one of the challenges is the lipophilic nature of vitamin D, nanocarriers have the potential to serve as an enhanced drug delivery system. Biocompatible nanocarriers are preferred due to their sensitivity to external factors.
Source: Cosmetics
2024, 11(2), 37; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020037
“Function of a new vitamin D derivative expected to be used as a cosmetic product: A new fountain of youth in skin aging and skin protection”
Author: Janjetovic, Z., et al.
