That’s not uncommon—for example, not at all — for skin care products containing peptides. This type of ingredient isn’t a recent discovery and isn’t new in terms of skin care formulations, but peptide-infused products are probably one of the biggest beauty trends of 2024. They are often featured in creams, serums, masks, etc. It promotes skin firmness and helps minimize signs of aging such as sagging and uneven texture. Interest in peptides also doesn’t seem to be waning, with neuropeptides (a specific type of peptide) becoming increasingly popular in skin care products.
Neuropeptides, as you may have guessed from the prefix “neuro,” are a group of peptides that play a role in signaling protein production in the body. These are commonly promoted by beauty brands as ingredients that help relax and soothe fine lines and wrinkles, but you may have heard that they also offer Botox-like effects.
Ahead, a board-certified dermatologist explains the growing hype behind neuropeptides, what they can and can’t do, and whether their “nature’s Botox” claims are true .
What are neuropeptides?
“Neuropeptides are short chains of amino acids that act as chemical messengers,” explains Melanie Palm, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon at Art of Skin Physicians in San Diego, California. Neuropeptides have been shown to stimulate the production of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid, which is why they are often marketed as topical alternatives to neurotoxins like Botox. ”
She added that research has shown that certain neuropeptides can limit the release of neurotransmitters that cause muscle contractions. So there are claims that neuropeptides mimic Botox-like effects. However, you cannot compare the results of applying serum spiked with neuropeptides with those of a potent, long-lasting injectable neurotoxin…more details below.
What are the different types of neuropeptides?
According to Palm, the most effective neuropeptides used in skin care formulations are Matrixyl, Argireline, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7. “Each neuropeptide has a different function, from stimulating collagen production to protecting against sun damage,” she points out.
Janet Graf, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and clinical assistant professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine, explains that because there are many different types of neuropeptides, it is important to make sure they are actually delivered to the skin. states that testing is necessary. Therefore, it is effective. “Their function depends on which specific cell receptors they recognize to achieve the desired effect,” she says. “Some stimulate collagen and elastin production, while others prevent collagen and elastin breakdown and maintain youthful skin.”
Why are neuropeptides used in skin care products?
Utilizing neuropeptides in topical products has several potential benefits. “The idea behind using neuropeptides in skin care is to harness their ability to communicate with skin cells and produce more collagen when applied topically,” Graf explains. Masu. “Signals sent within the skin not only help promote processes such as facial muscle relaxation and collagen production, but also help strengthen the skin barrier and improve overall appearance.”
According to Palm, neuropeptides mimic the signaling that affects nerves, so they have the potential to affect sensory nerves and therefore potentially minimize the discomfort or side effects felt after certain procedures. That’s what it means.
“For example, neuropeptides in new postoperative creams have been shown to significantly reduce discomfort, redness, and swelling after in-office procedures such as microneedling, energy-based devices, and laser devices,” she says. explain.
Can neuropeptides have the same effect as Botox?
The short answer is “no.” While it would certainly be useful if a moisturizer could provide the same muscle-freezing effects as Botox, its ingredients are no replacement for the injectable neurotoxin. However, you won’t get the same dramatic or lasting results.
Dr. David Kim, a board-certified dermatologist at Idris Dermatology in New York City, says botulinum toxin (the active ingredient in Botox) works by blocking the release of the neurotransmitter acetylcholine (ACh). “ACh is the signal that tells your muscles to contract,” he says. “So by stopping that signal, the toxin blocks communication between nerves and muscles.” He says argireline, a neuropeptide also known as acetyl hexapeptide-8, can work in a similar way. He added that it has been proposed. But again, the results are not comparable.
“Certain neuropeptides, such as argylene, are used in skin care and, in addition to aiding collagen production, can relax facial muscles and reduce lines and wrinkles caused by movement,” says Graf. he explains. “These neuropeptides can reduce signs of aging by relaxing facial muscles, mimicking the effects of ‘Botox,’ but they are not as effective as injectable neurotoxins.”
As Dr. Palm explains, topically applied neuropeptides are most likely to affect the outer layers of the skin. “This means that neuropeptides are unlikely to be effective in treating wrinkles in areas of the face that move a lot, such as around the mouth, eyes, and forehead,” she says.
One potential way to harness the effects of neuropeptides is by using them in combination with injectable neurotoxins. Dr. Graf says neuropeptides “also improve collagen production, which can enhance anti-aging effects.”
Palm says studies have shown that when neuropeptides are used in conjunction with neuromodulators, topical application of neuropeptides reduces the amount of wrinkles around the eyes.
So while neuropeptide-infused skin care products are certainly not Botox in a bottle, depending on the formulation, they can still be a beneficial addition to your routine. What is the best course of action? To find out if an ingredient (or injectable treatment) is right for you, consult a board-certified dermatologist.
