I spent the leap year of 2024 on the airwaves, co-hosting the infamous Feb. 29 broadcast on WJOB 12:30 a.m. with fellow food columnist Laura Crera of Traverse, Michigan, and co-hosting a special theme program. I presided.
Despite being surrounded by large ceramic frogs propped up on studio desks, the hot topic we wanted from the airwaves was a centuries-old Welsh rabbit recipe. It was about my interest in The latter does not jump because the recipe is ancient. It has nothing to do with rabbit being an ingredient.
Whenever Clera is in town, she helps co-host the weekly radio show, so there’s no shortage of topics to talk about. She is a Whiting native and remains passionate about Northwest Indiana, keeping a kitchen file of recipes from her region and her own family’s favorite menus.
She has published three cookbooks, Midwest Morsels, Fabulous Desserts, and Fabulous Tiny Bites and Beverages, and is the author of the first children’s book about the importance of nutrition, A Delicious Day at Mrs. K’s. Also, Ms. Clare. She is a member of the Food Journalists Association.
For our Leap Year studio visit, Clera brought a selection of premium cheeses from Cabot Creamery to sample. All of these are made from milk from cows harvested from pastures in Vermont, and Clera advised me that the cows are raised with care. Founded in 1919, you can learn more about the history and types of cheese we produce online at www.cabotcreamery.com.
It was during the discussion of cheese that Clera moved on to the topic of Welsh rabbits. The latter recipe is often referenced in movies and television, usually in UK-based series like “The Crown.” But growing up, PBS TV foodie icon Julia Child also mentioned it. I even remember it as a brief synopsis for her 1935 mystery film The 39 Steps, directed by Alfred Hitchcock.
“In the early 18th century, the Welsh rabbit hippie-popped onto the food scene in an initially unpleasant way,” Crera explained.
“But it offered an extremely appetizing combination of flavors and textures, and became a dish that experienced much of a renaissance, helping it bounce back into modern times. Also known as ‘Welsh Rarebit’ and other names. However, it should be noted that this dish does not contain rabbit and was simply named as such in a derogatory sense. ”
Mr Clera said the name originated as a derogatory term for the Welsh people, as the word ‘Welsh’ was a synonym for ‘inferior, fake, counterfeit’ during this time. Rabbit was the easiest food to catch at the time, so this was meant as an insult to the Welsh, who were incompetent and eating melted cheese on bread was the closest thing to rabbit stew.
“Although the name was originally intended to be malicious, the Welsh rabbit is actually quite tasty, especially when enjoyed on warm, crunchy bread smothered with similarly warm, gooey cheese. Especially so,” she said.
“The advantage of this dish is that it does not use rabbit. Its simple ingredients also make it very suitable for a meatless Lenten table. In the 1940s, meatless meals were introduced. It was virtually the norm. During the war and among single-income households, many households could not afford to eat meat or did not have access to it due to war rationing.
As a result, she said, many cookbooks from this era included numerous instructions for making mock meat dishes to trick families into thinking they were still being served meat courses.
“Recipes that stand the test of time are a true testament to their goodness, with the added bonus of a detour down memory lane,” Crera said.
Columnist Philip Potempa has published four cookbooks and is the marketing director for Theater at the Center. Contact him at pmpotempa@comhs.org or email questions to: From the Farm, PO Box 68, San Pierre, IN. 46374.
Laura Crera’s Welsh Rabbit
Makes 2 servings
1/4 cup unsalted butter
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon unrefined (colored) sea salt
1 dash of cayenne pepper
2 cups whole half & half or cream
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
8 oz. (brick) sharp cheddar cheese, hand grated
Toasted white or rye bread (sliced)
direction:
1. Melt the butter in a double boiler with boiling water. Add flour, salt, and cayenne pepper and mix. Cook until combined and the flour has no raw taste, about 5 minutes.
2. Stir in the milk and then the Worcestershire and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened. Add cheese, a handful at a time, cook and stir until melted and well mixed. Do not overcook.
3. Serve piping hot over warm toasted thick slices of your favorite bread.
