Taking the time to care for your skin care routine can boost your self-confidence and prevent dangerous health conditions like skin cancer. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that is naturally found in the skin. It helps neutralize and remove oxidation products such as those found after exposure to environmental pollutants and UV rays.
Research suggests that applying vitamin C (also known as ascorbic acid in its most common form) as a serum or lotion may help reverse signs of aging, regulate collagen production, and reduce pigmentation.
Sun exposure, acne, and even medications can leave your skin scarred or darkened, also known as hyperpigmentation. Some studies have shown that hyperpigmentation is a painful experience that disproportionately affects people of color.
Healthcare professionals can treat hyperpigmentation in a variety of ways, including chemical peels, laser therapy, and topical applications. However, topical vitamin C is a relatively affordable way to reduce dark spots because its chemical composition can reduce melanin synthesis, the biological process that causes dark spots. Long-term, consistent use is important to see results.
Everyone will eventually develop wrinkles, but prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays can damage the skin and cause wrinkles to appear more quickly.
Vitamin C is well known for promoting collagen production through the process of collagen synthesis. In fact, Vitamin C is essential for collagen synthesis. Collagen is a protein found naturally in skin and other connective tissues that decreases over time.
Retinoids are prescription-level skin care products made from vitamin C. They’re often used to treat signs of aging like wrinkles. However, if retinoids are too harsh for you, vitamin C is an effective alternative. Some studies have shown that it can reduce the appearance of wrinkles when used for at least 12 weeks. Combine with a low concentration retinoid for even better results.
Hyperpigmentation affects the skin’s radiance, making it appear uneven, dull, and prone to blemishes. One review showed that the use of Vitamin C reduced the production of melanin, the pigment that determines the color of your skin. Vitamin C reduces the production of melanin, helping to fade dark spots, age spots, sun spots, acne scars and melasma, resulting in a brighter, more even skin tone.
Some studies suggest that applying topical vitamin C may also help retain and hydrate skin, potentially influencing skin radiance. However, the moisturizing effects of vitamin C vary depending on the specific serum and added ingredients you choose, so more research is needed.
The wound healing process is very complex. Vitamin C plays a key role in skin healing from burns and other injuries because it helps the skin produce collagen. If you are deficient in vitamin C, your wounds are more likely to take longer to heal. This is partly because wound healing is linked to collagen production, and vitamin C promotes collagen production.
Using topical vitamin C may reduce the risk of permanent scarring or the appearance of scars. One study found that taking vitamin C supplements increased antioxidant levels in the body and skin, which positively impacted skin healing and growth.
Exposure to oxidative stress from pollution and UV rays reduces vitamin C levels in the skin.
Sun damage is caused by molecules called free radicals. Free radicals are molecules or fragments of molecules that have at least one unpaired electron. Free radicals try to form bonds with atoms, electrons, or molecules that can “steal” their electrons. This causes significant damage to the skin.
Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants, which help protect healthy skin cells by “donating” an electron to free radicals, rendering them harmless. Several studies have shown that applying vitamin C before UV exposure can reduce the risk of sun damage and associated wrinkles. Applying sunscreen daily also helps protect your skin from the sun and its harmful effects.
Vitamin C is generally safe to use and affordable to incorporate into your skincare routine. However, using high concentrations can cause side effects like itching, redness, and peeling. Vitamin C can also make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so it’s important to layer up with sunscreen.
Vitamin C is most commonly found in topical serums, creams and lotions. It can also be administered to the skin through microneedling, a procedure in which a health care professional makes tiny pricks in the skin to reduce scarring and wrinkles.
There are several derivatives of vitamin C available in commercial products. These include:
- L-Ascorbic Acid
- Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)
- Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G)
- Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)
- Palmitoyl-KVK-L Ascorbic Acid (Palm-KVK-L-AA)
- Ascorbyl 6-palmitate (AA-Pal)
- Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (IPAA)
While all of these have been shown to benefit the skin in some way, some studies have shown that L-ascorbic acid is more effective and stable than other derivatives.
Vitamin C is a relatively unstable molecule that is sensitive to light and air, meaning it oxidizes quickly when exposed to light and air, so look for products in dark or colored packaging with an airless pump.
Most products on the market contain around a 10% concentration of Vitamin C. If you’re looking for a topical Vitamin C product and have sensitive skin, avoid products with a concentration of 20% or more Vitamin C. Studies have shown this to be irritating, and that higher concentrations do not necessarily translate to greater absorption of the antioxidant.
Additionally, finding products that contain Vitamin C and Vitamin E are especially effective at targeting wrinkles and brightening skin tone.
Dermatologists have some recommendations on how to incorporate vitamin C into your skin care routine.
- If you have sensitive skin, make sure when choosing a product that it contains no more than 20%.
- Applying Vitamin C in the morning helps protect your skin from the sun.
- Apply after washing your face and before applying sunscreen.
A few studies have shown that taking vitamin C supplements may improve things like skin elasticity, but the majority of research has focused on topical applications.
Vitamin C is a popular and safe antioxidant that helps reduce signs of aging, diminish dark spots and scars, and protect skin from sun damage. Adding Vitamin C to your skin care routine, preferably in the morning, with long-term use, can improve the look and feel of your skin.
